This baker is breaking down bread barriers, one loaf at a time.
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portrait of baker Bryan Ford
Credit: Cedric Angeles

When Bryan Ford publishedNew World Sourdough去年,他有一个目标:颠覆普遍举行的以欧洲以欧洲面团烘烤的概念。福特(Ford)是非洲洪都兰(Afro-Honduran),他想突出他长大的中美洲和南美自然发酵的面包,例如牙买加硬面团和Semitas de Yema,并将对话从旧金山旧金山式的Boules移开。福特在介绍中写道:“如果让面粉和水混合物足够长的时间,它将发酵,尤其是在热带气候下。”“一块浓密的潘德·可可(Pan de Coco)的浓密面包不少于一个带有开放式脆脆面包屑的脆脆的bat。”福特的书在大流行中到达了新酸面团的观众中间,被证明是如此受欢迎,以至于几个星期都找不到。在六个月内,它售出了60,000份。

"In my mind, it doesn't seem that big of a deal or that special to make a coconut sourdough," Ford says. "I didn't expect it to be this phenomenon." But that is whatNew World Sourdoughproved to be, as well as a clarion call to shift the baking world toward inclusivity. That means not only acknowledging forms of naturally leavened bread that don't cleave to the Eurocentric model, like Ethiopian injera, Indian dosas, and Mexican birote, but also helping people realize you don't have to be a professional to bake bread. "Bread was being made 5,000 years ago in a Honduran wood-fired oven. The goal was to make something you could eat," he says. For Ford, the way that tropes of the professional baking world-like crackle-crusted loaves with perfectly honeycombed interiors-have crept into amateur baking is ultimately harmful. "You get this culture of exclusivity. People are hindered by that stuff."

Ford has been busy. He's starring in his own new cooking show,The Artisan's Kitchen,set to debut on the new Magnolia Network and Discovery+ on July 15. He formed a production company, Flaky Biscuit Media, with his partner, and he is currently working on a cookbook with about 150 recipes that celebrate the baking cultures of South America, Central America, and Mexico-beyond just bread. His aim is to continue the conversations sparked over the past year about whose food gets represented in cookbooks and how to broaden that. "The question is: How do we keep the momentum going? How do we pay respect where respect is due and honor traditions? I'm ready to talk."

Queso Fresco Sourdough Biscuits With Chimichurri

Queso Fresco Sourdough Biscuits with Chimichurri
Credit: Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis
Get the Recipe: Queso Fresco Sourdough Biscuits With Chimichurri