纽约餐厅庆祝室内劳动和创造力
胡安·韦拉斯科（Juan Velazco）从14年来没有见过他的妈妈，自从他从墨西哥普埃布拉地区移居纽约以来。尽管如此，他还是通过Tlacoyo-Puffy，塞满了椭圆形的Masa蛋糕与她联系。当他长大时，Velazco会选择鳄梨叶子为这道菜调味。尤其是在雨天，他的妈妈会在木制大火上的comal上做tlacoyo，他们会和一杯甜美的咖啡馆一起吃掉它们。
Velazco tlacoyo——充满了炸豆泥和requesón cheese and topped with salsa, crema, lettuce, and a fried egg -- is now served atKuxéin New York's Greenwich Village. Opened in March by veteran chef and restaurateur Julian Medina, the restaurant is named after the indigenous Totonac word for corn, and its menu focuses on home-cooking, mostly from Puebla but with dishes from Guerrero, Oaxaca, and Mexico City, too.
While the food is traditional,the menu format is not。在每个项目下方出现了开发它的厨师的名称，以及与菜肴共享个人历史的报价。这就是食客知道的，摩尔poblano扎根于阿尔弗雷多·萨拉萨（Alfredo Salazar）的家庭庆祝活动，而与霍贾·圣诞老人（Hoja Santa）一起涂漆的恩夫里乔拉达斯（Enfrijoladas）受到了Victor Lopez的妈妈的启发。Ramon Barreto，Emma Morales，Felipe Moso，Yuliani Palafox，Fidel Rodriguez和Moises Rodriguez的菜肴。
许多餐馆经营着由军事启发的小旅系统经营的，旨在展示食材，菜肴和奇异才能 - 厨师 - 而不是工人的集体劳动或创造性贡献。在这种情况下，Kuxé的菜单是静静的革命性，并且在餐饮业正在努力解决更大的问责制，公平和公平劳动惯例问题的时候首次亮相。
Last summer, former cooks at Sqirl in Los Angeles, accused Chef Jessica Koslow of taking their recipes and claiming them as her own.餐馆工作人员的其他呼叫跟随，这是向旅系统及其未能信贷库克的警告。但是，尽管食品界的许多人都同意食谱归因很重要，但vwin德赢ac米兰很少有人想象它应该是什么样子。
Kuxé是一个可能的答案。
Medina also ownsToloache，Coppelia，Tacuba Mexican Cantina，La Chula和TQS。In late fall, after New York City briefly brought back indoor dining and then quickly banned it again, he closed the Thompson Street location of Toloache, which was underperforming before the pandemic. Slow business meant that his cooks would lose shifts and pay in a year when they had already been out of work for three months. As Medina began to think about reconcepting the space, he wanted his team to take centerstage.
"It occurred to me to make a concept where we could involve chefs from all our restaurants, and they could pick up an extra shift by working here," says Medina. "Why not create a restaurant where the chefs make their own recipes -- what I like to cook, what I used to eat, dishes my parents fed me, or that my grandmother and grandfather cooked at home. What do I remember that brings joy to me and my family?"
Medina asked nine of his cooks to submit five ideas, but they each turned in 15 to 20. He built out the menu from there, selecting a few items from each cook and filling in gaps with dishes he ate as a kid in Mexico City and on family trips to Acapulco. Because so many of the dishes centered on masa, Medina partnered withMasiendato source blue and white organic corn from Oaxaca. "That's how we named the place. In Mexico, when you eat anything, you eat it with tortillas. Kuxé is life," says Medina.
Kuxé, the restaurant, is also a gesture of appreciation. "Last year, everyone was so down and devastated. I wanted to pump up the team and make them feel part of something. Seeing their names on the menu, it's exciting for everyone."
Before moving to New York in 2007, Fidel Rodriguez helped his mother and brother run a kiosk taqueria in Puebla. After working for Medina for 14 years, Rodriguez is now chef de cuisine of Toloache, and his family's al pastor (cooked on a proper gyro machine) and carnitas (drip-drip-drip-dripping with pork juice) are stars of Kuxé's taco menu. He also contributed crispy, beefy, cheesy tacos de birria with consommé for dunking, a dish his mom made for big gatherings.
当罗德里格斯（Rodriguez）为托洛阿斯（Toloache）开发了特价时，他的野心也更大。他说：“我一直在等待这样的概念几年，或者有机会将我的名字放在菜单上。”“我对这个概念充满热情。”
费利佩·莫索（Felipe Moso）感谢有机会分享格雷罗（Guerrero）的食物，他说厨师会欣赏在不同土壤vwin德赢ac米兰和土地土地上生长的豆类的细微差别。莫斯科学会了从他的母亲和祖母那里做饭，他的母亲和祖母从家里经营着一家食品业务，而家人则带有香肠，奇卡罗恩（Chicharrón）顶vwin德赢ac米兰上的弗里耶尔斯（Frijoles Puercos）和他的智利雷伦诺（Chile Relleno）的最后菜单。他说：“我最喜欢的食物总是vwin德赢ac米兰智利雷琳诺，因为在圣诞节，我们所有的家人都会聚集在一起并做到这一点。”
通过如此才华横溢的厨师过滤，所有的心脏和自豪感转化为诱人，美味和技术上精美的食物，麦地那（Medina）认为，他们在Kuxé开发的菜单过程将影响他的其他餐厅的菜肴创作。vwin德赢ac米兰“因为食物是如此美味，我们会感到兴奋。为什么不把某人家人vwin德赢ac米兰的食物放回墨西哥，再融入其他墨西哥餐馆呢？”他说。该格式还传达了一种更高的意识感。菜单上没有鸡肉三明治可以与其他餐馆竞争。Kuxé在芝麻面包上供应Cemitas（Puebla的Chicken Milanesa），因为这是Velazco每年要求他生日的一顿饭。Velazco说：“当我还是个小孩子的时候，我们没有肉和鱼的钱。”“我妈妈会得到一块鸡肉，然后用面包屑炸。太棒了。这很特别。”
