厨师说，餐馆可以永远改变的21种方式

Thecoronavirus今年年初在美国降落，到3月中旬，全国各地的餐馆突然被完全关闭。大流行在一个残酷的行业中被削弱了employs more than 15 million people, and was projected to do $899 billion in sales this year. Chefs, who are ordinarily consumed by the relentless pace of restaurant work, suddenly have the time to think about what the industry might look like after all of thiswhen it's safeto reopen.

We spoke with dozens of chefs and restaurant owners about what comes next. Thoughts ranged from the practical—disposable menus, added cleaning protocols, increased takeout options—to bigger picture revisions, like enhanced safety nets for restaurant workers and broader acceptance of no-tipping policies. Jon Nodler, chef and co-owner ofCadence,Food & Wine’s Best New Restaurant of 2019, is among those who hopes the crisis sparks an industry-wide change.

“We can't keep running this traditional model, the food and labor costs, and the pressure put on people,” he says. “I hope that restaurant owners, and everyone working in restaurants, is using this as a time to evaluate how to come back to it.”

Join us:Sign up for the weekly F&W Pro newsletter

随着美国人渴望再次在餐馆用餐并渴望支持自己喜欢的景点，现在可能是重置规则的最佳时机。请继续阅读这些行业内部人士预测（以及希望和恐惧）在餐馆重新开放时可能会发生什么。

“It won’t be a huge flow, but a trickle back into dining out or being around large groups of people in small spaces. We’ll probably be opening at 50% capacity, and then people getting used to going out again, and being okay with being around other people and in the restaurant, and you're gonna have to adapt to that. And that may look likesingle-use menus,银器被用某种袋子密封， 或许a sign saying that tables have been sanitizedbefore and after people sit down. Maybe servers are wearing gloves and masks at the table.”—Kwame Onwuachi, executive chef ofKITH/KINin Washington, DC

“寻找餐厅更加专注于确保员工和客人在身体空间中感到安全。Tables may move further apart, and operational processes will likely change to make everyone involved feel more comfortable as we get used to being around one another once more. In addition, we will likely see ashort-term rise in individually packaged or portioned meals, opposed to family-style dinners, as diners scarred by our collective trauma will not want to risk infecting themselves or others when out to eat.”—Sahil Rahman, co-owner ofRASAin Washington, DC

“It’s too early to tell what regulations will be put in place, which is a problem if we are to begin preparing to reopen. We need guidance from the government as to what restrictions there will be so we’re ahead of the game. My expectation is that we will seereduced occupancy in the dining rooms and bar areasof our restaurants,contactless payments, andsanitizer everywhere适合客人和员工。我们必须确保将用餐的喜悦与Covid-19的新现实保持平衡。”—Jason Berry, co-founder ofKNEAD Hospitality + Designin Washington, DC

“A collaboration of the federal government, Health Department, and ServSafe shouldinvest in a post-coronavirus safety and sanitation training program。It should focus on more in-depth cleaning standards, more strict personal hygiene practices, and implementation of food safety measures. This new training requirement should be part of passing or failing your quarterly health inspection moving forward.”—Robert Irvine, host of “Restaurant Impossible” on Food Network

“我认为我们已经看到了一段时间的餐厅结束了。I can’t say how long people are going to be afraid of close contact，但是只要存在这种恐惧，我看不到小型家族企业能够蓬勃发展，这是一个可悲而可怕的前景。但是，在这个新的正常情况下，大型的交付平台将脱颖而出。虽然人们可能害怕外出吃饭，但总会有饭菜。话虽如此，我知道这个行业将生存，并比以往任何时候都更强大。”- Anna Bran-Leis，所有者Taqueria Del Barrio,Dos Mamis, andDC Empanadasin Washington, DC

“We’re getting creative and working harder than we ever have to keep afloat until we’re permitted to reopen. And, when that day comes,it’s not going to be a full house from the jump。We’ll still have to do takeout and balance dining room service—whatever that will look like with any new health code rules that will be put in place to keep everyone safe.”—Marcie Turney, chef and co-owner ofSafran Turney款待in Philadelphia

“If tipping were eliminated altogether from all restaurants, then all restaurant employees would not only earn stable wages but we would be able to equalize pay between back of house and front of house. If every restaurant included service in their prices,它将重新编程来重置他们的价格是多少。Obviously when we will be allowed to have guests come back in, the restaurant won’t be full. Front of house won’t be earning the same level of tips so by just eliminating tips and paying an hourly wage, then the employees wage levels would be more stable and not dependent on how busy the restaurant is.”—Ann Hsing, COO ofDialogueand帕斯乔利in Los Angeles

“Wouldn’t this be a good time to universally eliminate tipping? Thetipping culture is a broken, archaic, macho system that can promote bad behavior并且只奖励一些负责用餐体验的人。或更改围绕餐厅工作人员之间的小费，以使所有人公平的法律。”—Mary Sue Milliken, chef ofSocalo,Border Grillin Los Angeles

“The severity of this crisis has aroused an important industry-wide critical reexamination of our practices and values. Healing and improving our industry in the future is contingent upon our collective ability to pay attention to the lessons we are being shown during this moment of survival and adaptation. I’ve been encouraged by and am hoping to see a further reduction of greed and exploitation, a return to the cultivation of experience and feeling over trends and aesthetics, and越来越重视组织横向和透明度。”—Brady Williams, executive chef ofCanlisin Seattle

“I vacillate between being paralyzed/terrified by the uncertainty our industry is facing and being thrilled by the opportunities for improvement—we are a creative bunch and I know many of us will find new and interesting ways to feed our communities. I’m excited to see what restaurant innovations spring out of this disaster. Right now, our food system’s weaknesses—underpaid labor, little or no paid time off/sick pay, lack of health benefits, incredibly tight margins, etc—are being exposed to a concerned public.我认为这是争取食品系统工人权利的机会，并向公众教育人工低价食品的社会危险vwin德赢ac米兰。我期待为农场/餐厅/杂货店工人提供福利套餐，其中包括医疗保健和PTO套餐，与其他专业以及一个理解并愿意为此付出的公众相提并论。”—Mary Sue Milliken

“该死的，我们必须营造一种氛围，我们的员工感觉就像家人一样，我们的顾客觉得自己在家中舒适而放松。制作既有营vwin德赢ac米兰养，富有创造力又美味的食物；迫使我们的供应商开始使用新的和创新的可持续解决方案来解决气候变化；be political fighters in the human rights movement; and we have to make money. Sounds like a breeze.”—Ron Goodman, chef and partner atIvy City Smokehousein Washington, DC

“I hope that pay rates go up and we, as restaurant owners, can raise our retail prices to compensate for that. I fear that wages will be squashed down, and we’ll have to be really aggressive on pricing to lure customers back in and to drive frequency of visits.I hope that unrealistic expectations of hours worked per day or week will be adjusted。I fear that we will be so tight on margins that we have to drive workers harder to make ends meet.”- 埃里克·尼尔（Erik Niel），厨师Easy Bistro & BarandMain Street Meatsin Chattanooga, Tennessee

“Honestly, it’s hard to see what good will come right now, but I think one positive thing we’ll see is that diners will have greater appreciation for the hospitality industry and what goes into making and serving food. While at home, we’re seeing many home cooks tackle new, challenging recipes, like bread-baking. Now that they’re experiencing first-hand that it’s a two- to three-day process to make good bread, I think they’ll havean even deeper respect for the profession。这么多的带宽nes of a restaurant has been forgotten or taken for granted, and I believe that with more people cooking at home now and doing the work, it will be a nice reminder.”—Michael Schulson, chef and restaurateur ofSchulson Collectivein Philadelphia

“I think the entire country is realizing, perhaps for the first time, just how important hospitality is. I hope to see this recognition continue to be brought to life. I hope to see我们如何看待所有酒店专业人员的转变——我们看到他们真正的命脉和来讲ibutors that they are—not just to the economy, but to the human spirit.”—Steven Devereaux Greene, chef ofHerons在北卡罗来纳州卡里

“We talked a lot about the true cost of dining. I think it's a hard conversation to have with guests, because they’re used to dining as it is. But I think that people are recognizing what restaurants mean to them.我真正希望看到的是对餐厅提供的娱乐的理解。Eating at a restaurant is your entertainment for the night in the same way that a movie or a concert or the theater is. So I hope to see people apply the costs associated with entertainment to restaurants. If you buy a concert ticket and you decide not to go to the concert, you still have purchased that concert ticket. I think that people don't understand the parallel between that and making a reservation at a restaurant and not showing up, or calling and canceling last minute, not allowing the restaurant time to resell that seat. You can get food anywhere, but if you want an experience that's your entertainment for the night, you essentially need to rent the table and rent the experience that you're seeking.”—Jon Nodler, chef and co-owner ofCadencein Philadelphia

“Because people started cooking at home, theirappreciation for good food and the work that goes behind it will rise。This will put pressure on restaurants to up their game to correspond with their prices, quality of food, and the overall experience they are offering. People, I believe, will not be as willing to go out to eat like they were before the pandemic, unless the overall restaurant experience is really worth it.”—Badr Fayez, chef and owner ofBowlilain Los Angeles

“To predict how the industry is going to look after this is all over is a tough feat. But it reminds me of when I first started culinary school. It was 2008 and the recession was at full speed. It was so difficult to think about job searching and how a career in culinary would look. Jobs all around us started to close. Pay was reduced to unlivable wages and so many folks were displaced. I think the grandeur of our industry will now be stripped away just like it was in ‘08. And quite frankly, pastry will be put into a corner yet again like it was during the recession. My hope is, though, that through this major event we can now see our mistakes from ‘08, where we went wrong and how we failed our cooks, our stewards and our industry family. In 2008 we should have set up failsafes to protect staff and give an honorable and living wage to our workers, the true backbone of our industry. Today,我希望我们从错误中学习，并确保提供并公平地照顾真正使我们的梦想成为可能的人。Rebuilding will be hard, but not impossible. But this time let’s do it the right way.”- Paola Velez，执行糕点厨师KITH/KINin Washington, DC

"The lesson we're learning right now—as business owners and as society at large—is that we have to protect our workers. It's evident that为餐馆建立安全网的需求从未如此重要, and right now that means banding together. Restaurant owners need to protect their staff and join forces to create a union or organized group that has their best interest, and that of their workers, in mind. A group with a unified voice would help mitigate the effects of recent difficult decisions, for future shutdowns."—Erik Bruner-Yang, chef and owner ofMaketto,Toki Underground,ABC Pony,兄弟姐妹, andSpoken English在华盛顿特区。

“I think there will be greater efforts for employers to take care of their employees, in terms of pay and benefits, but also healthy and supportive work environments. AndI think we will be actively pursuing resources and legislation to support these efforts。”—Christine Cikowski, chef and co-founder at蜂蜜黄油炸鸡在芝加哥

“Such a large number of people, as we have seen through the pandemic, have been left out from the conversation without recourse, support or much attention. A large number of people—immigrants, largely undocumented—who show up and do all of the heavy lifting making these places a reality for chefs and diners alike. We live in a country whose culture has turned into 'out of sight, out of mind,' whilst forgetting that we live in a country that was forged and built by immigrants whom without, most of what we have now would not exist. From buildings and railroads, to farmlands and foods.My hopes are that people see this vulnerable and marginalized faction of the industry, whom without it wouldn't exist, and push for better legislation, immigration policy, equal pay, and humane working conditionsthrough the entire landscape starting now and building towards a better future for the hospitality industry.”- 基督教Irabien，执行厨师Muchas Graciasin Washington, DC

“效率就是indu关键字stry when we begin to get out of this and will continue to be the keyword for a lengthy amount of time. Restaurant staffs have been decimated by this pandemic, and for the restaurants that remained open doing carry out and delivery, they've worked with a small fraction of the staff they normally run with. The longer this continues, the more experience that these restaurants will have with通过准备，执行，执行包装等变得更加有效。, to the point where when we are ready to reopen to the public for dine-in, there will be fewer staff members in both back of house and front of house than before the pandemic.”—Danny Lee, chef and co-owner ofAnju,chikoand曼杜in Washington, DC

“我认为很明显，一旦我们能够安全地重新开放，我们的业务将需要很长时间才能重新恢复'正常'。可能会有一种新的常态，我们需要在四堵墙之外找到机会，让客人在餐馆和酒吧体验我们的餐厅和酒吧。There is so much untapped potential virtually—I think there is, and must be, space for both virtual experiences as well as the in-person hospitality that has become one of our hallmarks. We've already pivoted towards takeout and curbside pickup, and are working on virtual cooking demonstrations and classes, but how can we push these ideas further? Can we create a virtual restaurant concept that can be a partner business to our traditional concepts? At this point, nothing can be out of the question. As an industry, a founding principle for restaurateurs is to take care of other people. If we can't do that in-person, we have to figure out another way.”—Barbara Lynch, chef and restaurateur of芭芭拉·林奇集体in Boston

“Inadequate government support and the extended nature of this crisis will be absolutely crushing for the restaurant industry and local shops across the country. The assistance offered so far has been inadequate, and without drastic action, we will see the shuttering of thousands of beloved small businesses (and struggling chains) across the country. Many will never re-open, and others, burdened by the weight of deferred rent and decreased sales will open once more, only to close a few months later, unable to meet their increased monthly payments. Tragically, yet somewhat predictably,a continued lack of access to capital and resources will result in immigrant and minority-owned businesses being disproportionately impactedand closing at greater rates than other businesses."—Sahil Rahman

“The restaurants that come out of this are going to be the ones that get really good at to-go business.我认为它有一个真正的机会将人们远离送货平台，因为您会看到餐馆开始弄清楚他们想控制收入更多一点。这也是要弄清楚如何让人们接听而不是要交付。您如何擅长拥有一家小型随身携带商店？您如何掌握路边交货？因为业务在那里。人们确实想要吃食物。”vwin德赢ac米兰—R.J. Melman, president ofLettuce Entertain You Enterprises在芝加哥

“It will definitely be slow coming back. A lot of us that haven’t previously offered take out or even explored it have learned thatit’s a great revenue source。"- 基督教总厨师The Wrigley Mansionin Phoenix

“As people get more and more accustomed to the convenience of having their meals come to their doors, they will be less inclined to leave their homes to get food once this storm passes. Much to the chagrin of many restaurant owners frustrated byhigh third-party fees, this trend is here to stay, and moving forward it will force many restaurant operators to adjust to this new reality. The real question becomes how to make the model work. Local restaurants are giving up to 30% in fees to the delivery platforms, the drivers are underpaid and underrepresented, and those companies are still losing millions annually. Restaurants are outraged, and the system is broken and unsustainable at this point. The question is what comes next, and who and how will we solve this problem.Look for many new companies and tech solutions to emergeto answer this question in the months and years ahead.”—Sahil Rahman

“鬼厨房将成为更受欢迎,因为of the low setup fees vs. the risk associated with it. It also imbeds delivery service into their model right off the bat so they need to choose the right packaging to allow their food to be delivered in the best quality possible.Ghost kitchens with a shared dining area is a much more suitable business modelto allow people to come and visit and eat food fresh.”—Badr Fayez, chef and owner ofBowlilain Los Angeles

“Given the rise in delivery, as companies adapt to survive, we will see many restaurants begin operating delivery-only ‘ghost restaurants’ in addition to their normal operations. While still nascent, this model has the potential to be a modern version of familiar retail brand partnerships such as the KFC + Taco Bell hybrid stores, where they serve full menus of two different brands in one retail store footprint, helping to increase sales and cut rental costs for both businesses. These ghost restaurants will allow brands to have their traditional retail storefronts, and inside the same space, allows them to produce and serve a totally separate digital storefront, brand, and menu. While still in the early stages, theseghost restaurants have the potential to help restaurants generate additional revenue out of their existing spaces。”—Sahil Rahman

“The unexpected impact of COVID-19-related hardships will have lasting effects on attention paid to mental health and anxieties—not just in our industry, but across all industries. It’s going to to be vital to turn our attention more than ever to the wellbeing of our hospitality professionals and create a continuation of this 'checking in with you/checking up on you' mentality that we have.We will need to remain vigilant in continuing to care for one anotherafter the return to work happens.”—Steven Devereaux Greene, chef ofHerons在北卡罗来纳州卡里

阅读更多:The Food & Wine Pro Guide to Mental Health and Sobriety

“We believe most places are going to be limited in capacity. We will continue our to-go and market items. We feel like most people will want to stay home still and only really go out occasionally at first, so to honor that,there will be options。”—Antonia Lofaso, chef/owner Scopa Italian Roots, Black Market Liquor Bar, Dama, Antonia Lofaso Catering in Los Angeles

“The COVID-19 pandemic has given an eerie glimpse into how agile most restaurants aren’t. Likelythe industry will see growth of concepts that are agile,meaning they can serve guests in a multi-faceted fashion such as dine in, to-go and/or delivery, and retail.”—Stephen Kaplan, co-owner and COO atRumi’s Kitchen在亚特兰大

“With human behavior and work culture shifting so rapidly,there is an open question as to which locations will be most desirable for brands moving forward。Downtown locations in cities have traditionally been hot spots for restaurants, with abundant numbers of office workers looking for a quick lunch or happy hour spot. With more people working from home, there is an open question as to whether people will come back to the workplace, and the answer to that question will change the calculus around which locations restaurants choose to open in moving forward.”—Sahil Rahman

“When we reopen as a restaurant, we will have simplified menus, now disposable, and changed seating arrangements and capacity. A large portion of our menu at Capo’s will be small plates—aimed towards creatinga more approachable, affordable, and fast experience。” —Tony Gemignani, chef and owner of托尼的比萨仙人掌andCapo’sin San Francisco

“I don’t think people will give up eating meat because of COVID-19, but we will definitely see less items on the menu with more innovative approaches to a “zero waste” philosophy. Dishes will be individually portioned as sharing plates may not be an option for some time. Innovative THALI (Indian-style meal made up of a selection of various dishes which are served on a platter) can gain its popularity in upscale Indian restaurants to reduce interactions with a server.” —Sujan Sarkar，执行厨师ROOH San FranciscoandROOH Palo Alto

“I am hopeful. I think super sanitized, robotic food service will not be our only option. People crave connection, and will want it more than ever after the pandemic ends. I see a strong push towards more local farming, self-sufficient food systems, and friends gathered tightly around tables to dine on foods that comfort. Yes, in the very near term, we will need to be physically distant, but when we have a treatment or a vaccine, or herd immunity, or at least a true measure of the risks associated with COVID-19, we will want, more than ever, the intimacy that only food and dining can provide.”—Josh Kulp, chef and co-founder of蜂蜜黄油炸鸡在芝加哥

“QR code-based ordering(you can scan the QR code at your phone to access the menu items and guidelines) can replace traditional menu cards, which will reduce interaction time with servers.” —Sujan Sarkar

“We are looking at technology and all viable ways to limit touch exposure and maintain the appropriate social distancing before, during, and after service.”—Max Goldberg, co-owner ofStrategic Hospitality（Catbird座位，Pinewood，Bastion，Henrietta Red，Patterson House，Downtown Sporting Club，Merchants，Band Box，Party Line）在纳什维尔

“As the co-owner of a bagel shop, I'm banking on people's continued love of carbs post-COVID."—Andrew Dana, Co-Founder of打电话给你妈妈in Washington, DC

“正如我们了解更多,希望接近拜因g able to reopen, we are thinking about taking seasonal approaches to our food and beverage concepts that will really give people on every level something they can't get at home. Things like sushi and our lamb lollichops are dishes people will be craving. We anticipate our chef-driven cocktails to outsell wines by the glass and other spirits too. Anything you can't make at home, we will be ready to provide.”- Greant Gedemer，公司食品和饮料公司总监vwin德赢ac米兰Oxford Hotels and Resorts在芝加哥

“Nobody knows what’s gonna happen. Stack your cheese and mentally prepare for unpredictable change.”- 查德·威廉姆斯（Chad Williams），厨师兼所有者星期五星期六星期天in Philadelphia