Many restaurateurs are reevaluating their tipping policies and, if not ending the practice altogether, finding new ways to distribute tips more evenly.
Advertisement
餐厅老板从客户那里接下订单
Credit: Shutterstock / WHYFRAME

这个故事是食用新规则的一部分。阅读其余的这里.

In 2015, when Amanda Cohen was preparing to move her acclaimed vegetarian restaurantDirt Candyto a bigger space on the Lower East Side, the chef wasn't getting applications. She came to the conclusion that the city was prohibitively expensive, and cooks were leaving as a result. It prompted her to research restaurant salaries and tipping.

“我开始阅读所有负面的事情 - 这是性别歧视和种族主义者,并赋予了客户太多的力量 - 我想,为什么我们对这个系统看上去看来,这似乎很混乱?”她说。“我将一半的人力资源交给了我的客户,这使我的服务器脆弱了。如果我们有一个糟糕的夜晚?为什么我不能只付钱给他们,并像我想像的那样对待专业人士?对我来说似乎是个好主意。”

科恩(Cohen)的招聘障碍导致了她如何构建工人工资的方式的根本转变,从而为厨师和内部雇员提供了更好的工资,并使她成为纽约最早消除小费的餐厅之一。

六年后,大流行及其对餐馆及其工人的破坏作用似乎促使该行业有一个分水岭,导致许多餐馆老板和厨师与科恩得出了类似的结论。他们正在重新评估小费政策,以及他们的员工一般如何付款。尽管有些人完全没有结束练习,但许多餐馆正在寻找更均匀分发技巧的方法。

费城的时候Laurelreopened last fall after a COVID-forced closure, chef and owner Nicholas Elmi restructured his employees' salaries, so every worker, from servers to dishwashers, is paid the same hourly rate, and tips are distributed to each person. With some servers making upward of $90,000 a year, while cooks worked longer hours and made roughly a third of that, the move helped balance the scale. Elmi says the change is part of making things more equitable.

他说:“我们试图为我们背后的人们建立更好的机会。”他反思自己担任厨师的岁月。“而且,如果我们可以更好地改变某些东西,我们将改变并继续前进。”

Chef Kurt Evans opened his mission-driven pizza spot在北部in March, designing his pay structure so workers are all paid the same hourly wage. He also points out the practice of tipping isrooted in racism—a vestige of slavery. "We don't turn down tips," he says. "But when people tip, it gets split up among everyone, from the cashier to the dishwasher. That was just along the model of wanting to be as inclusive as possible." But while there have been attempts to change long-held and unequitable restaurant pay policies, the evolution has been slow. Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group eliminated tipping in 2015, then去年夏天把它带回来作为共享小费薪酬结构。Elmi说,他(通常非常慷慨的)客户喜欢拥有控制权来决定要小费。他说:“教育公众将非常困难。”在下面,找到厨师和餐馆工作人员希望您了解小费的六件事。

小费在餐厅工作人员之间造成了鲜明的工资差异

"As a wife/husband team with experiences in the front and back of the house respectively, we were committed to leveling the unfair imbalance when we founded our own restaurant. All roles are respected and should therefore be compensated properly. The preparation of the food is equally as important as the sale. We've always been very clear about our views during the hiring process. Our hiring ads clearly state, 'If you don't believe FOH/BOH can work together and deserve equal pay, our company is not for you.' We pool the entire tips—some people leave cash on top of the 19% [tip we add to all dine-in checks]—for the whole pay period, then divide it by hours worked by all staff to calculate the per hour amount. And the staff gets that on top of $20/hour. The staff has exactly the same pay scale (unless they are new and still training)."- Yuka Ioroi,她的丈夫,行政总厨Kris Toliao的共同所有人Cassava在旧金山

最小提示应为20%

"Before the pandemic, 20 percent was seen as an appropriate tip for exceptional service. Right now with the immense demand for restaurant dining and the shortage of workers both in the front and back of the house, 20 percent should be the minimum. A lot of people have left the industry for a variety of reasons and the folks who are in the restaurants right now are busting their butt to provide the best service possible. Even if your food or drinks are taking a little longer, know that it's not for lack of effort, but because everyone is truly overwhelmed and very understaffed."- Shayn Prapaisilp,所有者Chao Baanin St. Louis, Missouri

“随着餐馆随着正常状态的回归而满足不断增长的需求,我的建议是确保您继续以优雅和耐心对待餐厅员工。许多餐饮场所正在浏览如何满足有限团队成员的需求,所以请记住提示 - 尽管现在是时候比过去更慷慨地小费了。”Paula DaSilva, executive chef at伯洛克海岸洛德代尔堡的丽思卡尔顿

您实际上应该在休闲餐厅提供更多小费

“对于客人来说,重要的是要设定他们对他们所能获得的服务水平的期望。例如,如果两个人在精美的餐饮场所用餐,他们的账单为200美元,则是20%的提示。该服务器为40美元,而两人在休闲,全方位服务的餐厅用餐可能有40美元的钞票,其中20%的钞票为8美元。对于客人来说,重要的是要知道休闲餐厅的服务器需要等待5个与高级餐厅的服务器相同的桌子会在一张桌子上制作。我并不是说他们应该为不良服务辩解,而只是要使他们的期望与他们在用餐和判断的机构类型相同他们相应离开的百分比。”—Adam Tilford, co-owner ofMission Taco Jointin St. Louis, Missouri

对于餐馆老板来说,无量政策更昂贵

“这并不总是餐馆老板不订阅[无尖端]系统的错。它非常非常非常昂贵。法律对您进行了反对。联邦和州法律,尤其是在纽约,几乎是对此的惩罚做对。(有更高的薪资税和更高的保险费用。)因此,没有小费的餐馆确实使系统陷入困境,并承担了很多负担。”—Amanda Cohen, chef and owner ofDirt Candy在纽约

顾客可能不支付enough for their dinners

"Most restaurateurs want to treat their employees well—by and large, we want to do right by our employees, and we would like to pay them more. We make choices about how much of our margin we can lose to do that. And the only way to be able to do that is to raise our prices. Tipping or no tipping, we just don't pay enough for the food on our plate, especially in a city like New York City, where so much goes into that food, and then you have so many extra costs surrounding it."—Amanda Cohen

Restaurant workers are essential workers, so tip accordingly

"We're making less money, either getting lower tips or no tips. Honestly, if you can't afford to tip someone who's risking his or her life for you to have your enjoyment, don't bother, stay home."- gabriella mlynarcyzk,bartender/general manager/beverage director in Los Angeles