马铃薯汤

我追逐了合适的托斯卡纳·罗利塔（Tuscan Ribollita）的风味17年，直到我再次吃了真正的文章，最后，在莱昂蒂（Leonti），厨师老板亚当·莱昂蒂（Adam Leonti）在纽约市的新意大利餐厅。莱昂蒂（Leonti）的托斯卡纳面包和豆粥（Bean Porridge）的咸味版本比我在意大利锡耶纳（Siena）的一家小山坡餐厅中所记得的好，甚至还要多。（和thatribollita, which I ate on my first visit to Italy, was so perfect and nourishing that it made me forget for an hour that I was wearing my girlfriend’s puffy sweater because the airline had lost my luggage.) Leonti learned how to make ribollita from a restaurateur from Lunigiana, a three-hour drive northwest of Siena, paying close attention to the porridge’s humble elements: grassy-green, peppery olive oil; earthy, rustic bread; small, thin-skinned white beans; and most importantly, sofrito, the finely chopped, slow-cooked mixture of carrots, onions, and celery that gives ribollita its extraordinary flavor.At Leonti, sofrito is the foundation of ragù, and of the hot broth served to guests upon arrival—and it’s such a crucial ingredient that his cooks make about 75 quarts of it a week. Leonti used to laboriously chop his sofrito with a knife by using a rocking motion. “Then I watchedEat Drink Man Woman, and the best part is the beginning, with the Chinese chef chopping with big cleavers,” he recalls. “I thought, ‘That’s the move!’”So, Leonti bought some large cleavers in Chinatown and a wood butcher block and set up a sofrito station in the kitchen, where today his cooks rhythmically chop and break down the whole vegetables into rubble using the same kind of chopping technique I saw a barbecue cook use at Skylight Inn BBQ in Ayden, North Carolina, to break down the meat of whole smoked hogs into a fine mince. The size of the mince matters—the smaller the better—Leonti says, because you’re multiplying the surface area of the vegetables by a thousand-fold. More surface area to caramelize in the pan equals more flavor.When I made Leonti’s ribollita at home in my Birmingham, Alabama, kitchen, I tried the double-cleaver technique but quickly switched to an efficient, two-handledmezzaluna太多的流浪后的洋葱,胡萝卜和celery fell to the kitchen floor. I followed his advice and sweated the vegetables in olive oil in a Dutch oven, slowly cooking the mixture, stirring almost as often with a wooden spoon as you would with a roux. After 30 or so minutes, I turned up the heat until I heard that rapid sizzle, signaling that the sofrito was beginning to caramelize, creating a massive amount of flavor. When you build flavor from the bottom of the pot like this, the flavors continue to transform, concentrating even further when you add then reduce aromatic liquids— in Leonti’s case, adding crushed tomatoes and white wine, which cook down to a tomato-wine-sofrito jam full of umami. That flavor base then gets rehydrated with water, then cooks down again with the kale, potatoes, and bread—the latter adds tangy flavor and disintegrates into the soup to add texture. Finally, cooked beans—both whole and pureed—go in, thickening and tightening the soup into a porridge.Leonti serves many of his courses in gold-rimmed Richard Ginori china to frame his food in the Tuscan context. His food is big city fine dining meets库班贫民, the Italian cooking tradition born of necessity that elevates humble ingredients into dishes fit for a king. I asked him about the restaurant’s tightrope walk between high and low. “What is luxury? Luxury to a few is foie gras or truffles,” he says. “But the ultimate luxury is time and space. Those are the two most expensive things on the planet. Ribollita is such an expense of time. It’s the ultimate luxury.”Especially when you’ve spent 17 years searching for a proper recipe.- 猎人刘易斯库克的注意：这里的面包和罐装罐头在这里正常工作，但是如果您购买最好的质朴面包，搭配新鲜磨粉的面粉烘烤，并每天提前一天用额外的sofrito煮豆子，尤其是由白豆出售的白豆Rancho Gordo—your ribollita will go from good to great.

Potatoes are the perfect base for soup; they can be made creamy or chopped into a savory broth. Here, Food & Wine rounds up the best potato soup recipes, from the classic creamy potato soup to potato soup with spicy shrimp.

Andrew Zimmern的土豆和韭菜汤是经典的Vichyssoise的即兴演奏，使大批冻结完美。

The hardest part of this soup is slicing the steak into thin, thin slices—but you can skip that step if you buy a package of presliced "beef for stir-fry" from the supermarket or sliced beef for bulgogi from an Asian market.加： More Soup Recipes and Tips

在第一年，埃塞克斯农场收获了10,000磅potatoesin just one day; Kristin Kimball turned some of them into potato-leek soup. If you have a blender and good chicken broth, she swears it's one of the easiest soups to make. This version has a fabulous topping of supercrispy sourdough and pancetta crumbs mixed with sage and rosemary.更多奇妙的汤

托尼·莫斯（Tony Maws）决定添加萝卜蔬菜时，他正在为他的餐厅工作人员用餐提供Vichyssoise。他们使冷汤变得如此活跃，以至于Maws将菜放在他的菜单上。加：More Soup Recipes and Tips