They add complex, mellow tartness and flavor that ordinary lemons can't match.

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保留一罐preserved lemons在您的储藏室里就像拥有有效的烹饪护照一样。破解盖子,挖出一段细分市场,准备旅行。尤文图 德赢咸柠檬在自己的盐水中浓郁,嫩和糖浆,神奇地转向一道菜北非and the Middle East. Their vibrant and savory sourness crosses borders and cultural divides and bridges religious differences. Because who doesn'tlove lemons?

无种子的柠檬
学分:Merethe Svarstad EEG / Eyeem / Getty Images

保留的柠檬是什么,它们是如何发展的?

When we refer to preserved lemons, we generally mean the sour citrus packed ingranular salt, a condiment most often associated with North Africa, and specifically Morocco, where lemons have been cultivated since (give-or-take) 100 CE. One of the most ancient ways of preserving perishable food is to salt it. Why? Salt keepsvwin德赢ac米兰食物腐烂的微生物at bay, and in a hot climate where fresh food deteriorates fast, salting (or drying) comes to the rescue—good for both storing and transporting. The sea happens to be a great source of salt, so if you combine lemon-producing regions with a coastline, you're bound to end up with preserved lemons.

But different countries and cultures have varying savory methods of putting up lemons, and the following are all technically preserved lemons: Lemon pickle in India could be flavored with a host of different spices, depending on the region. In传统烹饪马来开普敦($ 21.01,amazon.com), Elena Molokhovets explains that the water should be so salty "that a fresh raw egg [in its shell] dropped into it will rise almost to the surface." In Japan the super-fragrance of lemon-relative yuzu is preserved inYubeshi, where the fruit is stuffed with salty miso and nuts, before drying.

How Are Preserved Lemons Made?

But what about the straight up, salted lemons, so closely associated with North Africa? These preserved lemons are made by quartering ripe fruit while keeping the stem-end intact. Seeds are expressed and removed because they can make the preserve bitter. The lemons are packed into jars and salt is added. Some methods call for additional lemon juice—likethis one来自Paula Wolfert的地中海粘土锅烹饪($ 45,amazon.com)—while others do not. The salt gradually draws out the juices in the lemons over a period of weeks to a couple of months, when the lemons are ready. Which brings us to this fascinating question: Are preserved lemons fermented? The answer is, yes! The microbes at work during lactic acid fermentation are responsible for the transformation of the lemons' flavor from sharp freshness to a complex and mellow tartness, while tenderizing the skin and pith until they are buttery-soft.

您可以使用任何柠檬制成柠檬。当他们进入季节时,我们瓶装保留的迈耶柠檬充分利用它们的多汁和淡淡的薄皮。如果您不想等几周才能保存柠檬成熟,请用我们的隔夜食谱作弊Quick Preserved Lemons。两个提示:保存之前先擦洗柠檬,并使用良好的盐(从未碘化,因为它可以为盐水增添刺激性的质量)。

How Can You Use Preserved Lemons?

Preserved lemons lend authenticity and a sense of place to specific dishes from Morocco (like鸡塔恩),阿尔及利亚,突尼斯,利比亚和埃及,以及东地中海东部的散居者的影响。在丰盛的鱼汤的番茄基地上,保存的柠檬将其从地中海的欧洲一侧运送到非洲海岸。但是保留的柠檬也是一种多功能的成分,可以在无数的非传统和创造性的方式中使用:饮令人耳目一新保留的柠檬喷雾剂where the assertive peel is muddled with sugar and topped with seltzer (or substitute your favorite tonic). Use preserved lemons to add body and edge to a rustic南瓜汤与皮门顿。Chop and toss preserved lemon into a bowl of just-roasted root vegetables for a quick pick-me-up. Marinatehalloumi with preserved lemons and olivesbefore grilling the hearty cheese. Drizzle a spoonful of preserved lemon brine onto thick yogurt for a compelling dip or a topping for hot, baked potatoes. A simple, soul-satisfying supper is ourPasta with Preserved Lemons and Anchovies。And double the effect of the salted lemons in these烤土豆和腌制的柠檬,大蒜和辣椒。Preserved lemons complement烤羊肉

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