毛伊岛的真正风味是在农贸市场上发现的

一个星期六早上，在毛伊岛繁华的上国农贸市场上，一名银头发男子用他的raspy小提琴小夜曲。在他的摊位上，有有机的有机，是沙拉蔬菜，葱和...看起来是传家宝番茄和杏子的后代？


"That's an egg fruit," said the violinist, noticing my confusion. "It'll take one more week to ripen." I'd be gone in a few days, before this fruit that tastes of mango custard and has the texture of sweet potato pie would be ready. And that was the dilemma at Maui's oldest farmers market: A lot of the stuff is not for casual blow-ins. 


When you're visiting Maui—especially if you never leave the beaches, packed with wobbling palm trees and equally tipsy revelers—it's easy to mistake the 727-square-mile isle as a playground created for tourists. But before it became America's favorite vacation destination, the archipelago of Hawai'i had done just fine without visitors. These isolated landmasses in the middle of the Pacific Ocean had been fully self-sufficient since the first Polynesian settlers landed as early as around 400, loaded with pigs and chickens. The staple plants they brought, like taro and breadfruit, immediately took to the fertile soil and created bounty plentiful enough to sustain a thriving population.


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Today, about 90% of Hawai'i's food supplies are imported. That's why I was buoyed to see this thriving farmers market where most of the goods were在毛伊岛种植, by people on Maui, and for the people of Maui. There was a pile of毛伊洋葱, golden and sweet. There were bunches of marigolds wrapped in sun-bleached pages ofMauiTime。Vats of sauerkraut lined one booth, while another sold辣木pesto and mason jars of chutney. Still, there was plenty for interlopers like me, too, no cooking or ripening required: seaweed crisps, vegan miso ramen, and poisson cru, the Tahitian ceviche of raw fish marinated in coconut milk and citrus, from毛伊锥。


Reflecting the islands' history of migrations, Hawai'i's cuisine today is a wonderfully layered parfait of world cuisines, borrowing techniques and flavors from Korea, Portugal, the Philippines, Japan, and wherever else people arrived from to join the Native Hawaiians. And the arrivals haven't stopped.


迈克尔·马尔坎德（Michael Marchand）在Lapa'au农场，距农贸市场15分钟路程。这位来自加利福尼亚的29岁的移植物为岛上著名的餐厅提供了野生芝麻菜，以及各种蘑菇，例如狮子鬃毛。“在这里工作的土地，我学到了骗子" he said, "that Hawaiian notion of integrity, honesty, and kindness."


Curious to learn about what else was growing, I spent a week driving around Maui's mountainous heart, collectively called Upcountry. Two-lane roads lined with purple jacarandas and sandalwood wound through farms and ranches. There wasO'o Farm，游客可以在Haleakalā的山坡上进行午餐，这是构成岛上的两座巨大火山中的较大的午餐。在蔓延Ali'i Kula薰衣草农场，穿过花朵田的路径提供了一次平静的自导游。在Surfing Goat Dairy，我抚摸了一些婴儿山羊，然后对屡获殊荣的浓郁山羊奶酪进行采样。农场停靠点之间的监视点为双层全景。从窗户上滚下来，我会嗡嗡作响的素香气。而且不要问我，我多久从一块蓬松的碎冰片中加入糖冰块，在蛋spoty果糖浆中生产Ululani's。OK, so I might have stopped at their Kīhei location driving from the farmers market to West Maui and again in Lahaina after slurping ramen at Star Noodles. (See "Where to Eat," below).

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One evening, I snagged a reservation atKiawe户外, a roaming alfresco dinner pop-up run by Maui-raised chef Yeshua Goodman. On a green slope in front of a private home, I settled with a group of strangers at a picnic table and enjoyed a multicourse feast that started with charred carrots and pea shoots accompanying goat cheese from the dairy I'd visited earlier in the week and peaches from just down the hill. As the darkening sky became one with the sea, Goodman served smoky taro leaves blended into a rich coconut emulsion topped with candied saffron—his take on native Hawaiian food with a touch of the Mediterranean. By the time stars outshone the flickering lanterns, he was pouring yuzu broth with a flourish into shallow bowls of freshly caught ono.


在最后一天，我前往毛伊岛的主要城镇Kahului。就像知道的人一样，我去了我的机上午餐Tin Roof, an unpretentious takeout joint byTop Chefalum Sheldon Simeon and his wife, Janice. With its fried chicken sandwiches, ocean-fresh poke, and wok-fried noodles, this one-counter operation embodies the laid-back and combine-everything ethos of Hawai'i's multicultural cuisine.


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"Each island is different, but I'd say Maui has a unique blend of more outside influences just by the sheer amount of tourism," said Simeon on the sidewalk just outside his business. He'd recently learned more about differences among the islands while researching for his cookbook,Cook Real Hawai'i。But lately, he'd become concerned for his home island and its food. "We need to welcome travelers and guests," he said. "But they also have to understand we have limited resources, which should go to the community first." 


为了给您一个主意：虽然有167,417人称毛伊岛为家，但仅在2021年上半年，就有近100万游客在毛伊岛上降落。以这个速度，每年，每位全职居民都会有十几个游客来到毛伊岛。然而，旅游业也是当地人的生命线，直接和间接地占该岛经济的80％。


当我最初开始终极culinary road trip on Maui, I imagined I could simply write odes to the island's multicultural flavors, wide-open pastures, and a few food trucks. But the tensions arising from overcrowding—tensions heightened by the pandemic—have shown that tourism can't go on as before. 


同时，毛伊岛不能存在于真空中。那么，也许对于游客来说，了解食物的来源并支持更多的本地种植者和企业，以可持续的方式增强当地生态系统，这比以往任何时候都更为重要。vwin德赢ac米兰只需在毛伊岛的桌子上吃一顿饭，告诉你我们毕竟生活在一个相互联系的世界中。

毛伊岛（Maui）非常认真地将其加油站grub（或磨碎，因为食物被称为当地的食物）。vwin德赢ac米兰这是一些突出的。


After cutting his teeth at the Relais & Châteaux property Hotel Wailea, Zach Sato opened his first solo project at an unassuming gas station in Kihei in December 2020.Havens涂在烤架上，塞在烧烤炉上，塞米宁塞在三天煮三天的骨汤上。


被安置在原始的中世纪建筑物内Uptown Kitchen & Food Martis no ordinary gas station, with its own retro diner–style grill dishing out daily specials ranging from yakitori chicken to grilled salmon salad. 


With its cult following on the island of Hawai'i, Manuela Malasada(243 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina)arrived on Maui and settled in the parking lot of a Lahaina gas station, frying and filling fist-size doughnuts to order. Get them rolled in li hing mui (salty-tart plum powder) and stuffed with emblematically Hawaiian liliko'i (passion fruit) butter or ube (purple yam).


Now a local chain,Minit Stop自1982年开业以来，一直是家乡的宠儿，他的炸鸡和块状土豆楔子以同样的秘密香料混合物面包夹而闻名。

Here's how to get a taste of Maui and support its producers—no plane ticket necessary.


Maui Ku'ia Estate Chocolatemakes delicate squares of dark and milk chocolate using the fruits of its 8,000-some trees on an arid slope near Lahaina. You can also take a virtual farm tour that goes with tasting boxes (starting at $70) or mail-order gift sets of chocolate flavored with locally harvested fruits like mango and calamansi. 


家庭面包师可以发挥创意Voyaging Foods, which ships flour made from original canoe plants such as taro and sweet potatoes.


Since its humble beginning as a family operation in 1981,库木农场has grown to over 200 acres of farmland, from where you can order fresh papayas and pineapples.


A staple in the Polynesian diet, breadfruit adds smooth richness to the icebox Pono Pies fromMaui Breadfruit Company, shipped frozen in fours.


毛伊岛政府鼓励狩猎轴deer, an invasive species that's currently devastating the endemic flora.Maui Nui Venisonoffers subscription boxes of the wild meat, processed according to FDA and USDA regulations. The company also ships venison bone broth, meat sticks, and dog treats.

The originator of dry mein, Maui's soup-less interpretation ofsaimin,现在是第三代的家庭ownership. The thin noodles are simply tossed with sweet char siu (roast pork), scallions, and a sweet-and-salty secret sauce and are well worth the detour to an industrial part of Wailuku, the non-touristy county seat of colorful wooden storefronts.1750 WILI PA LOOP，WAILUKU

The other end of Maui's noodle evolution serves hand-pulled noodles in creative combos, like chile-lime dashi with smoked prosciutto and Thai basil toppings. The open-air oceanfront restaurant also excels in made-to-share dishes inspired by every corner of Asia, like crispy Vietnamese crêpes and shrimp tempura.

Enjoy an excellent brunch by chef Lee Anne Wong tucked away in a courtyard under a giant baobab tree in historic Lahaina. The menu includes macadamia nut pancakes, cornflake-crusted French toast, striped marlin Benedict with miso hollandaise, and ramen, made breakfast-ready with poached egg and bacon.


Dishes like perfectly crispy twice-fried chicken in sweet gochujang glaze and Wagyu kalbi served with finadene, a chile sauce from Guam, draw on the Korean-Guamanian heritage of former Lineage chef MiJin Kang Toride.

尽管在拉海纳（Lahaina）拥有脱衣舞，但这是一个绝对不符合素食主义者的纯素食菜肴。拿塔罗汉堡或泡茄子鲁本去；它们包裹在岛上丰富的（非常可堆肥）的ti叶子中。

As of press time, proof of vaccination or a negative COVID-19 test was required prior to departure to Hawai'i. While travel is not restricted, there are some capacity restrictions still in place in restaurants, rental cars can be hard to come by, and the island's hospitals are stretched due to the delta variant. Consider visiting when cases go down; visitgohawaii.com用于更新。