Best New Restaurants 2019

Why it won:Leighann Smith和Daniel Jackson Touch的一切都有5-羟色胺T恤大炮Je Ne Sais Quoi。

您订购的那种脆脆，咸，胡椒粉 - 胡椒粉卷是那种东西，因为它们在那里，为什么不在。您告诉自己的事情您会品尝到，但不会完成，因为您是成年人，而不是在本科生测试重力烟枪和微波炉的范围。您等到客人在浴室里用Sriracha Mayo的最后一件事抛光的事情，然后靠在幸福和羞耻的糊涂的雾霾中。它也提到了布丁鸡蛋卷，这是您在Cajun国家的每个加油站发现的东西。但是，您会非常高兴在这里吃它们新奥尔良的一块肉。

莱伊恩·史密斯（Leighann Smith）和丹尼尔·杰克逊（Daniel Jackson）是这家混合肉店和餐厅的建筑师Je Ne Sais Quoi。Smith is responsible for the cultish bologna that put NOLA sandwich sensation Turkey and the Wolf on the map, and she does another version of the stuff here, cut into thick slabs and piled on an onion roll with provolone, fried onions, and the works. There are fat sausages and southern-inflected charcuterie, which you can buy from the retail case or devour while watching Smith and Jackson butcher primals just beyond the lunch counter. One evening a month they fire up a charcoal grill and cook steaks on the sidewalk, sending the scent of sizzling beef fat drifting down Bienville Street.

整个地方都是一个不太美的美。一个动手的，您的风味和乐趣。正是我们缺少的东西。

Why it won:Chef Mei Lin pulls every trigger, twirls every dial to a defiant volume.

就在虾吐司撞到桌子上的时候，您会意识到自己最好注意。到目前为止，所有的都是厚脸皮的罐头葡萄酒和粉红色的盘子和性感的加利福尼亚人们，讲述了翡翠绿vwin德赢ac米兰色宴会的舒适故事。但是随后出现了这件事 - 一碗粤语咖喱，所有的姜，柠檬草和椰奶，以及中间的痛苦的疼痛楔子，脂肪，尖锐的虾和拳头炸了咖喱叶。一秒钟，这是唯一的事情。

Born in China, raised around Detroit, shaped by her early experiences in her parents’ Chinese restaurant in Dearborn, Michigan, chef Mei Lin cuts a fierce figure in her open kitchenat Nightshade。This is her passion project, the landing pad for years of R&D pop-ups where she took the time to polish away any rough edges. It’s the reason why her beef tartare is so sublime, dotted with egg yolk jam and Korean gochugaru beneath a dreamy veil of radish flowers. Why the Szechuan burn in her Nashville-style hot quail can confidently dance the jitterbug up and down that high-heat balance beam.

凭借辣椒和椰子，胡椒和百香果，嬉戏和强度，参考高低，夜幕降低了所有扳机，将每个表盘旋转到挑衅的音量。好的，梅林 - 我们正在关注。

Why it won:Chef Jonny Rhodes offers neo-soul flavors and an unflinching exploration of African American history.

很难确切地知道如何谈论靛蓝, but the truth is it’s better to listen. To 13 seats, two times a night, chef Jonny Rhodes delivers a thesis in five courses—the historic oppression and creativity of African, African American, and black people, told through the lens of what he has named neo-soul food.

Several courses are presented with context from Rhodes, derived from years of research into the African underpinnings of American vernacular cuisine. A theme of preservation ripples through the menu—techniques like curing and pickling were vital to the survival of agricultural oppression experienced by African Americans. So you might encounter sweet and sticky preserved figs, smoked fowl, or vegetables submerged in spice-spiked vinegars years before the restaurant ever opened its doors.

Some dishes skewer the language of racism, like the funky venison sausage and beets stewed in sorghum in a dish Rhodes calls “Homogenization of Mandingos.” Another, called “Turtlenecks & Durags,” arrives with a parable. You’ll eat sweet crab meat warmed in butter; you’ll hear the chef dismantle a myth about black communities—that its members thwart the progress of those attempting to leave, like crabs escaping a barrel. Other dishes are less interpretive but offer an opportunity to engage with the foods of survival—an earthy “coffee” made with toasted okra seeds, or aged potato ashcakes, which reference the rationing of meat for enslaved children.

Rhodes, who put in time at Gramercy Tavern in New York and Oxheart in Houston, is a gifted cook. And so while all of this may be delicious, none of it is comfortable—it isn’t intended to be. Sometimes the things we need the most are the hardest to swallow.

Why it won:Karen Akunowicz’s love letter to Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region is an instant classic.

The tigelle iron is a tricky thing to maneuver in a busy restaurant in a tight, open kitchen—it’s heavy and awkward, a long-handled clover with seven little depressions filled with dough, held over the stove until you get something that resembles a Bolognese English muffin. But it happens every night at Fox & the Knife in Boston, once just before dinner and then again right in the middle of service. The iron is a memento from the year chef Karen Akunowicz spent mending a broken heart and folding tortellini as a young cook in Modena, Italy. For a decade she hung onto the relic, sure she’d build a restaurant around it one day. And by January of this year, she had.

Akunowicz was already a star—aTop Chef选手和2018年詹姆斯·比尔德（James Beard）奖的获奖者在Myers + Chang的工作中获得了比赛，当时她打开了Fox＆The Knife，但South Boston Spot是她的第一个独奏。那些蒂格尔（Tigelle）是艾米利亚 - 罗马纳（Emilia-Romagna）的特色菜，应该告诉你她在这里的心情，但阿库诺维奇（Akunowicz）大部分对区域性有轻微的触感。她的野船博洛尼斯（Bognese）的香草和帕玛森（Parmesan）的隆隆声是粘稠的，她的黑手党含有咸味的瓜西亚（Guanciale）。但是随后有潘扎内拉沙拉挤满了漆树和石榴，凯撒和烤西兰花的长矛在romaine中，以及那一轮热薄荷饼在其赤道上散开，并挤满了渗透的塔利奇奥。

None of this is the kind of thing you’d stumble across around Piazza della Pomposa. But here in Boston, in the care of Akunowicz with her shock of pink hair, and in the light of a neon “stay foxy” sign, and with the din of Bostonians turning up with spritzes and Americanos, it all feels exactly right.

Why it won:Chintan Pandya gifts NYC the kind of quality, everyday Indian fare he grew up with.

所有这些都快速而香，Chaat在黄油鸡肉旁边争夺空间，成堆的Naan用黄油刷，一罐印度的苏打水和啤酒来自皇后区和布鲁克林的啤酒厂。This is the work of Chintan Pandya, who arrived in America six years ago and found it lacking in the sort of food he’d want to eat—the kind of market-driven, high-quality, everyday dishes he’d grown up with. From there, Adda took root.

Pandya was born in Ahmedabad, in Gujarat, India, and grew up in Mumbai, but his cooking at Adda defies regions. A dum biryani arrives under a cap of bubbled naan, sealing braised goat and moist grains of saffron-dyed rice inside. Paneer, a commercial product in many Indian-American restaurants, is made in-house here—from high-fat milk that’s been curdled and pressed until it is firm enough to hold its shape, stewed with local greens in a seasonal saag, or dusted with chili powder and grilled. Pandya updates the fritters known as pakora with ripply kale, stews goat brains with ginger and onions, and captains a tandoor with grace, kissing lamb chops with garam masala, splashing poussin with vinegar and black salt, and sparking prawns with cranks of black pepper.

Pandya is also executive chef at the high-end Indian restaurant Rahi in Manhattan, but it’s Adda I keep coming back to. On any night of the week, its narrow space is packed with guests tearing through naan and sipping mango lassis—it’s clear I’m not the only one.

Why it won:时空连续体中的鸡尾酒omakase还是眼泪？我们可能永远不会知道。

除了那些已经发展成为更高，耐候的生物的中西部人外，芝加哥元素确实往往会留下痕迹。Kumiko的所有者似乎知道这一点，因此在那几个月中，当您可以在空中冻结沸水弧线时，总会有一杯热茶在门口等您。当季节转弯时，您可以扭动其压迫性湿度的天空，那茶当然会很酷。在拍拍眉头并惊叹于主持人的同时，他们像Kumiko的其他员工一样迷人，她甚至都不介意您是今天的第50个人，对天气发表评论。

Linger a moment. This is the last time you’ll think of the outside world for a few hours.

Kumiko is the sophomore project from 2017 Best New Chef Noah Sandoval (Oriole), who takes a half-step back here so that his collaborators—Cara Sandoval, Julia Momose, and Mariya Russell—can shine. Kumiko is more high-concept bar than fully fledged restaurant. Beverage director Momose has created a cocktail omakase as precise as any tasting menu, rooted in the brewing and distilling traditions of Japan but stretching from Okinawan awamori to sotol from Chihuahua, Mexico, in a few graceful leaps. You forget yourself quickly—the sound of a mixing spoon clinking against Yarai crystal, the lamplight glow, the strange thrill of bierschnaps, shochu, and kola nut–infused cream conspiring in a hot cocoa trompe l’oeil.

Then comes chef de cuisine Russell to put you back on terra firma. A pork bun in a party dress, with a corsage of fresh herbs. Prawns in lacy tempura batter with a caramel that’s been enriched by juices from the crustacean’s head. A platter of short ribs with DIY garnishes—puffed tendons and beef fat hollandaise and a grilled lime.

Too soon it’s time to leave. Out onto the sidewalk you go. Time picks up just where you left it.

Why it won:在一家邪教的日本三明治店里，B侧不能错过。

Consider Konbi the food-world equivalent of a Kacey Musgraves tune—catchy like a song of summer, but also deeply resonating in the culture. In other words, love is indeed a wild thing, and Japanese sandos are here to stay.

如果您只知道Akira Akuto和Nick Montgomery在Echo Park的10个座位的咖啡馆，那么可能两者可能会制作一种类型的，Instagram少量的鸡蛋沙拉三明治。这是对强迫性工程的三局长，这是对东京便利店文化的点头，但对洛杉矶乐观的精神真实 - 更加，更多，更多。蛋黄，像日落地带上的交通灯一样发光，牛奶面包与棉花糖共享基因组，Kewpie Mayo，是的，但也是CrèmeFraîche。这是最后一顿饭。

确实，这是您要回来的Konbi的B侧。阿库托（Akuto）和蒙哥马利（Montgomery）每周大约有1,000个鸡蛋，但其中更多的鸡蛋应该进入分层的煎蛋饼三明治，这是塔玛戈亚木（Tamagoyaki）的胖米勒·弗（Tamagoyaki）完美的胖米勒·弗（Tamagoyaki Perfection）。还有油炸的katsus，加上像工人蚂蚁一样坚固的蔬菜侧，在这个整洁的小菜单上载有50倍的体重（Meyer Lemon -pourted Turnips）和日本腌制的柏拉图式理想。早点来（大约早上9点），您将有机会在Konbi Cap：法国糕点中品尝另一只羽毛。他们每天最多销售42种巧克力羊角面包，这是一个精神病性的爱情劳动，涉及手动sheeter和那种狂热的敏感性，可确保每一口都有可可。哦，有一个罐头。不仅是任何罐装，而且是最好的罐头。朗姆酒，鸡蛋和黄油的金色装甲，奶油的壮举使您意识到自己从未真正拥有合适的罐头。

重点是，如果您为单曲购买专辑，那就很好，只要您在某个时候就一直聆听。

Why it won:Over duck frites and natural wine, a view of the great Gotham that was.

In a moment when New York City counterculture feels like it’s on life support, it’s easy to forget the great Gotham that was. The one in the opening credits ofSaturday Night Live，封面上的明亮的灯光，大城市，这是可能的，在奥德蒙（Odeon）的一个深夜，抓住基思·哈林（Keith Haring）将他的脚放回他的境地，约翰·贝鲁希（John Belushi）突袭了步行。那不是2019年的纽约市，这座Google HQS和Waiting forGodot–like drudgery of a broken transit system, and developments that ought to stir the vengeful spirit of Jane Jacobs.

Still, praise be to Frenchette—someone’s got to keep the lights on.

这是锡和皮革，一杯饮料太多。这是有雾的牛奶玻璃和循环的Erika Langstroth壁画，就像具有21世纪约束的Bemelmans酒吧。当然，来vwin德赢ac米兰自Balthazar和Minetta Tavern的顾问的Co-Chefs Riad Nasr和Lee Hanson的食物当然是法国人，但不是。锁骨不是在外壳中送上的，而是在鸡蛋上撒上如此柔软的鸡蛋，您可以从开胃玻璃杯上s饮。gnocchi parisienne有光泽与科姆特（Comté），一个夜晚的鸭子炸薯条，几个高级飞行的幻想（谁邀请您参加聚会，小牛的斯特罗加诺夫？）。在每个桌子上，在每个角落，交易，约会，孵化的计划，一顶伟大的帽子，壮观的猫眼，一个人的身分都知道。

Frenchette是, in many ways, the perfect New York restaurant—a clarion call for an imperfect city to remember itself. A dinner here, a return to form.

Why it won:MASA用当地玉米和“黑魔法”制成的MASA铸造了不可抗拒的咒语。

Before you taste it, you smell it. A block away as your taxi rumbles up East 6th Street, hanging thick and sweet in the air as you approach the entrance, then inside the dining room: an invisible, ambrosial swirl. You’re smelling masa, a fundamental building block of Mexican cuisine and the pride of Suerte in Austin.

面团的核心很多标志性的墨西哥foods has been an American obsession in recent years, with importers of landrace corn like Masienda becoming superstar suppliers. But this is Texas, a place where the borders between Mexican and American cultures can be as fluid as they are fraught. And so chef Fermín Núñez, who grew up traveling between the Mexican city of Torreón and various cities in Texas, found that he didn’t have to look too far to source the corn for his masa—he gets it from growers right here in the Lone Star State.

他由此产生的Masa是泥土基岩，支持Suerte的一切。Núñez将其砸成柔软的玉米饼，这些玉米饼容纳可能是世界上最奢侈的Suadero-Nounñez称之为“黑魔油”的萨尔萨奶酪上浸泡在芝麻和烟熏的即兴演奏中。他将面团塑造成柔软的饺子，使其漂浮在浓密的黑色黑人中，将其炸成盐kiss的Tostadas，然后将其烤成金发，在粘稠的Cajeta中lock着。

在一个世代相传的Tex-Mex善意的城市中，Núñez将其头部的比例翻转了起来。2019年：Mex-Tex年。

Why it won:Simple pleasures and serious food—for once, you don’t have to choose between them.

感觉良好的餐厅去了哪里？那些恢复精神的人，那些让我们以超越明显的方式感到饱食的人，那些酒类款待不是算法的三重Axel，而是人类，衷心的 - “家庭怎么样？”。您知道纽约市的类型：壁炉；洛杉矶的乡村峡谷。在该列表中，添加Cadence in Philadelphia。

Before chefs Jon Nodler, Samantha Kincaid, and Michael Fry opened their South Kensington charmer, they all worked in various kitchens of beloved Philadelphia restaurant group High Street Hospitality for about six years—a lifetime as far as kitchen tenures go. It speaks to a sense of loyalty and basic goodness that carries through in every exchange at Cadence. You might get a call the morning of your reservation to remind you that the restaurant is BYOB—they’ll direct you to a bottle shop down the street where they’ve curated a small list of retail wines that pair especially well with their live-fire cooking. You might inquire about an especially vivid Concord grape soda you see on its way to a table and moments later be handed a tiny glass of the tangy, perfect flotsam on the house.

Lest you think all of this sweetness and light also means a no-brainer menu, consider the herb dumplings, like the creamiest gnocchi, with mustard butter, and a lamb ragù in a tractor-pull contest of brightness and funk. Both savory and sweet are handled with a masterful command of acid here—charred tomatillo with rings of grilled squid one night, huckleberries with bison tartare, buttermilk with pink slices of bavette, or a sundae of cider shaved ice, with sesame seeds where sprinkles might have been.

Simple pleasures and serious food are the point here at Cadence. And for once, you don’t have to choose between them.