我们准备好了一个白杨回归吗？
Maison Nico is a new pâtisserie and market in旧金山杰克逊广场，普通鸟类喜欢Pâténcroûte，赤鳖和奶油刀Feuilletée争夺一个人的注意力。然后，一切都与之相比them. The lacquered, artfully layered half-domes. The aspics. If you're not accustomed to thinking ofaspicas an object of desire, chef Nicholas Delaroque aims to change that. "Most people are familiar with pâté, but the aspic is the eye-catcher," he says. "Once people discover it, they really enjoy it."
对法国人来说可能不是普通美国人的意义。许多人认为，大多数定义是一个咸味的肉果冻，成为20世纪50年代的遗物。这道菜从慢慢煮熟的凝胶状动物或鱼零件中获得其质地，形成可以用蛋清澄清的肉汤。偶尔，Aspic在Pâté或滴塞中充当层。最常见的是，果冻包裹着肉，蔬菜，蔬菜，有时是鱼类或煮熟的鸡蛋。
In葡萄酒食谱, aspic is showcased as a grand centerpiece that gets its shape from an elaborate jello mold. These images often make the rounds as nostalgic memes, and the dish is occasionallymocked on TikTok. Kholodetz, the Eastern European spin on aspic, is the star of aBuzzfeed视德赢尤文图斯频called "Americans Try Weird Russian Foods for the First Time." And yet, Delaroque is hardly alone in making aspic bold and beautiful again, as many newly opened restaurants around the U.S. are gearing for the dish's most glamorous comeback yet.
At Maison Nico, the elaborate aspics look nothing like the yellow jello blobs of yesteryear—one is pescetarian, containing lobster and snapper, and another stars cabbage, Guinea hen legs, and vadouvan.
Equally thoughtful and gourmet versions have recently emerged across the country. At the newly opened克里斯托弗在箭牌豪宅in Phoenix, AZ, guests can sample a layered lobster flan topped with seaweed-flavored aspic. In Chicago, newcomer亲爱的玛格丽特在奶油色菠菜顶部的Aspic，Breaded and Dream-Briefly ove over of just开放的芝加哥前哨站Verve Wine, plans to add an aspic special soon. (During past stints atPer Se和Roister，EPP制作了一款特色的Turbot，另一个用哺乳猪。）西雅图的屠夫商店野兽和砍刀和its restaurant The Peasant, open since late 2020, offerjambon persille, a traditional ham hock terrine in aspic from Burgundy, as part of its charcuterie program, along with aspic-laden pâtés.
甚至不是新的餐馆目前正在向名单中添加Aspic。在旧金山机构SPQR, a starter of pork, salami, and mortadella terrine encased in a "gelatina" of clarified apple cider was just added to the menu. At Washington D.C's欢乐，对于母亲节及以后，期望用辣番茄番茄植物查找蟹饼。最近出现在Napa Valley的精致性建筑内，用茴香和番茄味，味道的鱼类前滴虫。按.
To what do we owe this aspic renaissance? Part of the story is meat-loving chefs who, empowered by the全国范围内的Charcuterie的热潮, have been feeling emboldened to take matters to the next level. "Once I get the hooks in and get the customers' trust, they will try other weird things I'll put on the menu," says Dear Margaret's chef Ryan Brosseau. Aspic is the new shiny thing for Brosseau, who has "a reputation for charcuterie" and has experimented plenty with head cheese in the past. Deep-frying it helps, he says.
还有熟悉的大流行减缓了一切，将重点放回费力，精心制作的烹饪项目。“客户真的享受我们的阿美观人，并且总是好奇关于它是什么以及它是如何制作的，”凯文史密斯从野兽和砍刀说。“当他们意识到它需要三到五天才能制作一批白杨，他们真的很了解技能，时间，技术和努力量。目前，老学校，经典技术都有很大的关注。”
波特兰的邦妮德国俄罗斯大众人Kachka应该知道。她一直在提供Kholodetz，她在2014年开业的比赛中，她在餐厅的菜单上致电了“肉果冻”。它也在Kachka的食谱中。
“我认为总是有一个时尚的摆动摆动，现在探索食物及其起源时，这只是一点点挥杆，”她说。vwin德赢ac米兰什么是“起源”而不是小牛肉腿，猪猪蹄在几个小时内煮熟几个小时？莫拉莱斯还表明，骨肉汤健康热潮可以帮助使骨骼更加开放更多的人。
Hiroyuki Tanaka, the chef and owner ofZamain Philadelphia, has been serving a different version of aspic for years—nikogori, a traditional Japanese jellied fish broth. "Over the past year we have seen more interest in things like mochi and coffee jelly in general, as they have become more popular and mainstream," he says. "I think that people's growing familiarity with Japanese cuisine in general might make them more apt to try aspic."
Arguably, aspic takes Japanese, Korean, and other dessert textures increasingly beloved by the American palate并在社交媒体上疯狂地受欢迎into savory territory, and perhaps, we're finally ready. I ask aspic veteran Morales if that might be the case. "That's probably related," she says. "If you think of agar and jellies, bubble teas, overall—right now, for us as a country there's a heightened awareness to try something new being open to more different textures." Whatever the reason, aspic is here to stay, and this time, we're finally ready to take it seriously."