法国浸入calzones存在，没有什么是一样的

The spectacularFrench dipcalzoneatRonanis an ode to French dip pioneerPhilippe’s。It’s also the type of thing that can happen when an independent chef is left alone to explore the depths of his imagination.

“在我们打开之前，我在手机中列出了一千件自由流，脑流的想法，这就是其中之一，”经营洛杉矶餐厅的厨师丹尼尔·卡特勒（Daniel Cutler）说。和他的妻子凯特琳。

The massive calzone is plump and speckled and charred. It comes with a knife because you definitely should cut into the 10-inch calzone and then dip pieces of it into comforting French onion soup and fierce hot mustard. The filling includes beef that’s been marinated in Cognac and aggressively seared before being basted in butter and sliced. There are also three cheeses (local mozzarella and caciocavallo from Gioia Cheese Co. in El Monte, along with Parmigiano-Reggiano from Emilia-Romagna) inside each baked-to-order calzone. The chew and the char of the dough are important elements as well.

“我们烤面团倒,所以它变得same leopard spotting you would get on the top of the dough when you bake a pizza,” says Daniel, who also cooks pizzas in his oven that burns California white oak.

Ronan is a modern mom-and-pop restaurant. Caitlin is the general manager of the Melrose Avenue destination. The Cutlers, who previously worked at Sotto and Alimento, have a 4-year-old daughter and a 4-month-old daughter. Do the math and you’ll realize that Ronan, which opened in September 2018, had a pregnant GM for most of its first year.

凯特琳说：“这家餐厅的最大司机之一是我真的很喜欢在餐饮业工作，我认为成为母亲并为其他人工作将很难。”“鉴于我认为丹尼尔有多才华，我当时想，‘为什么我们不开放自己的餐厅？’这样，我们可以做出将有益于我们自己和家人的选择。如果我们的大女儿洛根（Logan）生病了，我不想去上班也不能呼唤。”

Ronan serves dinner six days a week, and Daniel and Caitlin regularly put in 12-hour days. Logan hangs out in the restaurant after junior kindergarten. “She runs around the dining room like a crazy animal,” Caitlin says. They’ve decided they’re OK with many things that might not make sense in somebody else’s restaurant. They’re fine with blasting hip hop even though some customers have found it jarring. (“If you go back on our Yelp, I would say six or seven of the first 20 reviews are like, ‘Super loud aggressive rap music is not really what I would suggest for a restaurant,’” Daniel says.)

这家餐厅是豪华的家园帕姆·博伊兹（Parm Boyz）pop-ups, where red sauce flows freely and tables are covered with chicken parm, eggplant parm, and pasta on one or two Sundays each month. Chris Amirault, the bar director at Otium, had approached Daniel about the possibility of bringing East Coast-style Italian-American food to Ronan. Daniel says he was down with the idea because he wants Ronan to be a place where talented people from other restaurants, and also talented people who work for him, can try out different things.

Ronan sous chef Jeremy Elkaim, for example, wanted to make the parsley salad that Fergus Henderson serves with bone marrow at St. John. At Ronan, that salad comes with a fish dish inspired by Coni’Seafood, a beloved Mexican restaurant that the Cutlers visit on their day off almost every week. Ronan’s gremolata-topped sea bass is a tremendously delicious DIY lettuce-cup situation with the restaurant’s version of banchan. (When the Cutlers first met, Daniel was living in Koreatown.) There might be fried shallots, chile paste, marinated-anchovy aioli, assorted pickles, or a test run of some farmers market ingredients the Cutlers just found.

On the week I eat Ronan’s calzone and sea bass, I also pop by the new Melrose Avenue outpost ofBanh Oui。这是厨师Casey Felton和Armen Piskoulian制作越南三明治的地方。但是空间也是托尼·卡查普里（Tony Khachapuri），Felton和Piskoulian在那里为佐治亚大面包提供服务。另外，费尔顿（Felton）和皮斯库利安（Piskoulian）吸引了前格温糕点厨师艾米·泰勒（Amy Taylor），他在同一地点运行了Oui Bakery，其出色的甜甜圈，橄榄油浸透的stecca和发酵的辣椒饼。

“Melrose has become more about the people involved rather the concept living within the space,” Felton says.

那是拥有独立餐厅的另一件事。您不必以任何传统的方式定义自己。在同一空间中，您可以同时成为不同的事情。在罗南（Ronan），丹尼尔（Daniel）正在浏览他的1,000个想法，并思考他如何用石榴汁制作甜味酱汁。

“Ronan is not really an Italian restaurant by any means,” Caitlin says. “It’s much more of a personal restaurant.”