全球用餐的未来

“每年八月，我都会去印度北部的拉达克，”普拉特克·萨杜（Prateek Sadhu）告诉我，他的声音兴奋地肿胀。“我去那里挑选海克托恩。它是最美丽的地方之一，有很多生物多样性。它确实是印度的隐藏宝石。”

I was speaking by phone with Sadhu, the chef of面膜, in Mumbai — one of our2019年世界上最好的餐厅- 从我位于墨尔本的家庭办公室的沉闷暮色。我们一直在讨论他和世界各地的其他餐馆老板为了拯救自己的业务和帮助社区的不可思议的长度，而且谈话经常带着动荡和不确定性的负担很大。但是，当我问他关于他的后梦中的梦时，萨杜的语气彻底改变了。他说：“下次你来印度时，我会带你到那里。”

有一会儿，我让他的愿景的温暖带到了他所描述的这个令人难以置信的地方。似乎不可能相信我会再这样旅行。尤文图 德赢我几乎没有离开家了几个月。但是，今年没有什么令人难以置信的，亚洲狂野的角落的幻想给了我力量，兴奋和奇迹 - 所有旅行一直为我所做的一切。尤文图 德赢

不到两个月前，我一直在哥伦比亚卡塔赫纳（Cartagena）的街道上徘徊，感觉就像是tr。我正在进行研究，以研究第二次迭代World’s Best Restaurants list，这是一项雄心勃勃的事业尤文图 德赢旅行 +休闲和vwin德赢ac米兰食品和美酒，vwin德赢ac米兰which was to appear in the pages (or on the screen) you’re reading now. A couple of days later I was seated at the counter of a blindingly fantastic restaurant in Rio De Janeiro, sipping a cocktail the color of the sun. Four days after that I was driving over the hills of St. Lucia, looking for the first time at the vividly colorful rooftops of Soufriere set against the brilliant blue of the Caribbean.

像去年一样，当我和我的编辑启动年度项目时，旅行很激烈。尤文图 德赢我几乎每天几乎每天都在一个不同的国家，黎明前升起，乘飞机，开车越过山脉，入住酒店并吃多餐。这次派遣一位批评家来体验最神奇和令人印象深刻的餐厅的想法并不那么令人生畏，只是因为我们了解了使其正常工作所需的耐力和物流。我们比以往任何时候都更相信：寻找一个令人难以置信的可信赖的厨师，作家，旅行专业人士和以前的获奖者提名的地方 - 大多数令人眼花disc乱地代表了他们所在地点的文化和社区。尤文图 德赢

我对哥伦比亚，巴西和圣卢西亚的记忆现在具有不真实的东西，就像一个奇妙的梦想一样。一切都变化了如此之快。该计划让我在旅途中持续了三个多月，但是在我的报告中四个星期，世界卫生组织宣布了Covid-19是一个大流行，几天后，我正乘坐最后一次飞往澳大利亚在该国关闭边界。我得到了两个星期的命令。那个隔离区结束的前一天，我居住的墨尔本进入了锁定。

我们脑海中的安全性进入了今年的研究，但不知道病毒会多快地改变一切。在二月份，我们认为我将无法到达亚洲的许多地方，而且意大利也不太可能。我们讨论了如何在那些巨大的差距中汇编有意义的清单，并决定这可能是我倾向于欧洲和亚洲的目的地，以及在那些早期热点之外的中东目的地。我上路，穿越南美，墨西哥和加勒比尤文图 德赢海地区 - 当时是受影响最小的地方 - 当我很明显我必须回家时，才进入美国开始吃饭。当我在3月中旬离开美国时，我告诉朋友和家人，一旦吹来，我很快就会回来。

It is still my intention to pick up where I left off as soon as possible. But possible now seems a long way away. My home country of Australia is lucky; at the time of this writing our COVID-19 numbers are down and restrictions are beginning to loosen. Those low numbers have been achieved in part because we are an island nation that closed its borders early. I have no idea when international travel will be allowed again, but it’s unlikely to be any time soon.

We couldn’t bear to let the travel I’d already undertaken go to waste. There were restaurants I visited this year that were stunning, and that absolutely deserve recognition. We felt strongly that the list’s intent — to celebrate and showcase the hard work and creativity of the industry we love — is even more important now, with that industry among the hardest-hit. But what is a list of the World’s Best Restaurants with only a few parts of the world represented?

In the end, we decided that the list was always meant to be a rolling, ever-expanding beast. We never planned to repeat restaurants year over year; the theory being that once a restaurant has earned a place on the list it should remain unless there is good reason to remove it. And so, we are adding to the list what we can — from South America and Mexico and the Caribbean and Australia and New Zealand — and as soon as I’m able to resume travel, we will continue to add restaurants from other parts of the world. I can’t wait.

During the days that I was supposed to be flying to Jordan and boarding trains in France and waking up in hotel rooms wondering not just where I was but which continent I was on, I sat in my dim home office in Melbourne and made phone calls. I spoke with the chefs whose restaurants were honored on last year’s list. I asked them how they are weathering all of this, what they thought the restaurant world would look like in the months and years to come, and where they longed to visit when travel is possible again. Though the mood was often somber, the overwhelming feeling I came away with was pride, and awe in this community of people who are using every ounce of creativity and positivity they can muster to save their businesses, help their employees, and contribute to their communities. No one I spoke to longed for things to return to normal in the restaurant industry – the normal of low wages and job insecurity and abusive power structures. Normal is no longer good enough.

尽管我与来自世界各地的厨师和所有者进行了交谈，但态度和策略的相似之处令人震惊。在孟买，萨杜（Sadhu）从多道菜品尝菜单格式过渡到为拉面和炸玉米饼提供的外卖餐厅。在Nomain Copenhagen, René Redzepi turned his fine-dining institution into a wine and burger bar. Here in Melbourne,在tica’sBen Shewry also transitioned from in-house fine dining to takeout comfort food, making meals of lasagna and salad and fresh bread. Shewry has managed to keep all of his employees working, using front-of-house staff as delivery drivers. “We get up every day and put on our uniform,” Shewry said of himself and his staff. “We are still professionals, and we present ourselves as such.”

萨杜（Sadhu）还继续向所有员工付款，并为他们提供医疗保健。他还希望向那些从他那里订购食物的人提供额外的服务和舒适感。vwin德赢ac米兰他说：“如果他们要我烤生日蛋糕，我会烤蛋糕。”

Many of the chefs I spoke to from last year’s list had become advocates for their larger communities. A percentage of each meal sold by Masque is being donated to an NGO that works to feed the hungry in India. Part of Attica’s takeout offering includes a soup that helps to fund meals for hospitality workers in Australia on who can’t access government resources due to their visa status.

在HišaFranko，在斯洛文尼亚，安娜·罗什（AnaRoš）使用锁定者与她的员工进行强化教育，以涉及发酵和觅食等主题，并创立了一家冰淇淋公司，该公司从供应商那里购买多余的产品，他们面临残酷的业务损失。罗什说：“我们有空间可以开放新的想法。”“我们正在努力将我们在这一刻所做的所有工作中进行工业化，以帮助当地的农业社区节省现在巨大的生产。”罗什说，目的是将这些过剩的食品变成人们可以在家吃的美食。vwin德赢ac米兰“这需要很多时间，也需要很多激情。这是另一种思维方式。”

当我与Redzepi交谈时，他描述的是哥本哈根的光荣春天，他有机会以一种格式来养活他城市人民的欢乐，这使Noma有可能服务比平常更大的人口统计学。。“太有趣了，”他笑着说。“We had a bunch of kindergarteners walk by the other day and one of them pointed and told his friend, ‘my dad says you can get burgers there now!’ Our first people in line today are a couple of older women, and they’re going to sit in the wine bar for half the day and enjoy themselves. That feels really good.”

这是incredible that independent restaurants have adapted so quickly, all over the world, with only their own creativity for a roadmap. Not only that, many chefs and owners are actively thinking about ways to move forward that are better than what they’ve done in the past — to make their businesses more beneficial and sustainable and equitable for everyone involved.

这意味着在萨凡纳、格鲁吉亚、灰色的厨师Mashama Bailey希望城市能够重新考虑允许更多户外座位的好处，甚至可以关闭更多人口稠密的街道，以腾出人行道用餐。贝利说：“增加产能增加了20％至30％可以节省一家业务，但这也将使美国城市更加行走和宜居。

在哥本哈根，Redzepi正在思考他可能会继续为自己社区中更广泛的听众做饭的方式。（尽管我们俩都承认，一旦国际游客到达现场，汉堡栏模型可能不会工作：“这条线将长五英里，所有美食博客作者都会笑，”他笑着说。）vwin德赢ac米兰

我个人渴望回到旅途中，探索和旅行和品尝。尤文图 德赢但是我也对我的祖国有了新的赞赏，那里几乎每个人都可以使用医疗保健，那里的最低工资足够高，以至于小费不是对整个行业的赔偿的主要型号，而社区合作是基础价值。

我还发现了新的骄傲井，这是一种新的荣誉感，可以允许研究这个行业，它充满了内心，如此富有创造力，并且绝大多数致力于积极的变化。当我终于登上那架飞机并回到那里时，我真的希望我发现的东西会比以往任何时候都更好。

在此之前，我将梦想着那些蓝色的海洋，那些阳光色的鸡尾酒以及我今年短暂但甜美的全球冒险中遇到的所有惊人的景象，气味和风味。这是更多的冒险，更令人振奋的饭菜，以及所有使我的工作变得如此令人难以置信的快乐的厨师，所有者和工人。

Read more about this year’s picks for theWorld’s Best Restaurants list。