犹太美国面包店文艺复兴时期正在如火如荼

Imagine sliding into a comfortable, cracked red booth with a steaming bowl of matzo ball soup. There's a tray of黑和白曲奇饼遥不可及，与令人愉悦的鲁格拉赫（Rugelach）的土墩一起，如果是安息日，鸡蛋面包。除了标志性的犹太美国熟食店和面包店（怀旧之殿，舒适的食物和切碎的肝脏），您还可以去哪里？vwin德赢ac米兰

这些机构被称为填充过多的Reubens和Lacey Latkes的主要阶段。但Judaism isn't a monolith, and neither are today's Jewish American bakeries and delis. We live in a world where Chicagoans can feast on cinnamon-scented churro babka from Jewish-Mexican bakeryMasa Madre, and it's a delicious place to be. A new wave of chefs and bakers are creating nostalgic foods with a focus on using local ingredients, beloved regional flavors, and progressive labor practices.

去年，motzi面包began making waves in Baltimore with their Benne Rye loaves and sturdy babka rippled with preserved local fruit and single-origin, bean-to-bar Askinosie chocolate. Owners Russell Trimmer and Maya Muñoz chose the name as a nod to the Hamotzi, the traditional Hebrew blessing over bread. They mill their own flour from whole grains grown throughout the Chesapeake Bay region, aiming to support local farmers while demonstrating the deliciousness of lesser-known grains. There's a steady stream of fluffy challah on Fridays and einkorn matzah for Passover ("an ancient grain for an ancient bread").

Muñoz says that while she wouldn't necessarily consider Motzi Bread to be a Jewish bakery, largely because they aren't kosher, Jewish values are baked into their business model. The bakery operates a "pay-what-you-can" model, where customers can name their own price as higher or lower than the listed price, depending on their needs. Motzi also offers a "pay it forward" loaf program, where customers can donate $5 to fund a sandwich loaf for mutual aid and food distribution groups like Bmore Community Food. On average, they donate 50 loaves per week.

“我对社会公正和食物公正再保险的兴趣vwin德赢ac米兰ally comes from my Jewish background," Muñoz says. "[The pricing] stems from thinking about being named Motzi and taking to heart the interpretation of the Hamotzi being a vision of a world in which there is food for all. One thing we can do in the meantime while we're working towards that world is to have more equitable pricing."

Muñoz说，Motzi Bread并未获得犹太洁食认证，以优先与当地生产商合作，而本地生产商可能没有资金或带宽也可以这样做。他们并不孤单：类似的精神正在指导Meshugganah, a new kosher-style deli and bakery down in Charlotte, North Carolina. Owner and "head mensch" Rob Clement may have taken a bagel research trip to New York City, but when the doors open this fall, customers can expect an exploration of the intersections of Jewish and Southern cuisine.

"We want to bring the flavors and nostalgia of these old-school Jewish American institutions into today's context, from the diversity within Jewish food to seasonality and regonality," says Clement. "Being in the South, we want to use what's around us." In addition to paying homage to Jewish cuisine across the diaspora, like the Ethiopian Jewish Shabbat stew sanbat wat, there will be plenty of Southern-Jewish hybrids like pimento cheese knishes, matzo ball gumbo, and beet-cured smoked trout.

克莱门特说：“我们不能在当地得到鲑鱼，但是鳟鱼在卡罗来纳州很大，因此我们正在与当地的可持续鳟鱼农场合作，称为阳光农场和甜菜从街上的农场开始。”“这是一件具有象征性的犹太事物，在我们的家乡以我们的方式制造。”Meshugganah的Pastrami将展示同样的方法。不，这不会是鲁本。取而代之的是，三明治将完全由诸如希普利农场（Shipley Farms Briket）等本地食材制成渴望的和尚mustard, and sourdough rye from翠绿的面包，仅有限的数量可用。

"We know if we use a bigger beef production company we could produce hundreds of sandwiches a day and make more money, but it's not the best thing for our community to send money out of town to get big batch beef," says Clement.

Some modern Jewish institutions aren't shying away from kosher restrictions. In Miami, the city's orthodox and secular communities come together overZak the Baker的酸味黑麦面包，番石榴糊和关键的石灰派汉坦琴。扎克·斯特恩（Zak Stern）在整个城市（包括在伙伴的车库中）进行了数年的烘焙批发工匠酸面团（包括在哥们的车库中），于2015年创建了犹太认证的面包店和咖啡馆。斯特恩（Stern）在世俗的房屋中长大，并说他不打算开设犹太面包店。他说：“我做了面包店犹太洁食，所以我的妻子保留犹太洁食可以在那里吃饭。”“我不知道我要注册什么。”

经营犹太洁食的粮食设施受到许多限制。vwin德赢ac米兰首先，面包店在周六的安息日（The Shabbat）关闭，这是一周中收入最高的日子之一，是逾越节的整个星期和全年其他许多犹太节日的一周。卡什鲁特法律禁止牛奶和肉的混合，因此咖啡馆完全是纯素食主义者，以避免与奶制品面包店冲突。这种限制导致了经典的创造性即兴演奏，例如羊角面包散发着熏制的新星“鲑鱼培根”和奶酪而不是火腿。每件生菜都被塞夫马斯吉亚奇（Staff Mashgiach）洗净并检查了虫子，这是一名犹太洁食主管，他还可以确保供应商的每道菜和食材都可以接受，并且没有将外部食物带入该场所。vwin德赢ac米兰到现在为止，斯特恩说，卡什鲁特感觉就像是另一种合规性，例如食品安全或OSHA。vwin德赢ac米兰

"Zak the Baker is a kosher establishment run by a non-kosher person who is committed to keeping it kosher because I like how it binds us together and makes us more inclusive," he says. "The bakery provides a neutral zone where everyone can be Jewish together. Whether you're orthodox or secular, you feel at home."

除了制作光明节的Dulce du Leche Sufganiyot，并为Shavuot（传统上乳制品的假期）制作了Basque Cheesecake，这家面包店还制作了高耸的糖果柑橘派雀和King Cake，享受圣诞节。

他说：“我们一直保持整整一年的传统，我们碰巧真正代表了犹太人的日历，但是我们的客户全部全面，这是有意的，我们希望它具有包容性。”“我认为面包店有一个真正的机会，可以以欢乐，狂热，包容的方式来维护传统。”