美国基本披萨风格的指南
Before the 1950s, most Americans didn't know what pizza was. Arriving to the U.S. in the late 1800s, it was considered a cheap "ethnic" food, eaten mostly by marginalized Italian Americans in hole-in-the-wall restaurants or on the street.
作为克里希努杜·雷（Krishnendu Ray）writes in his bookThe Ethnic Restaurateur, it was only when Italian Americans climbed the socioeconomic ladder and were considered to be white that their food, in turn, gained acceptance and appreciation.
这种转变开始于40年代,当士兵有限公司ming back from World War II. They'd been exposed to pizza in Europe, and now craved it back home. Some of these GIs opened restaurants; others were just inspired to take their families to existing Italian restaurants, which started reaching a cross-cultural clientele.
American appetites were changing, and technology was too. This allowed for mass production in the decades to come: Frozen pizza and big-name chains popularized the dish across the country, especially in the Midwest and West, where there weren't large Italian communities. And where there were—industrial centers likeNew York，纽黑文和Detroit—you saw regional Italian-American cooking styles emerge in the '40s or '50s. These eventually swept westward, until you saw the emergence of a California pizza style in the early '80s.
第二次世界大战后的经济允许更多的人创办企业，花钱和娱乐。事实证明，披萨非常适合聚会，孩子们也喜欢它。它的多功能性意味着您可以将几乎所有东西都放在上面，每周吃几次，而不会感觉自己在吃同一顿饭。所有这些因素在披萨作为美国符号的巩固中发挥了重要作用，正如卡罗尔·赫尔斯托斯基（Carol Helstosky）在她的书中指出的那样Pizza: A Global History。
在这项对美国披萨风格的调查中，我们想包括几种品种，但由于空间而无法包括，但由于太空而无法包括美丽的，丰满的Beaujo的科罗拉多州的馅饼，或者是圣路易斯的薄薄的，薄薄的，薄薄的，。还应注意，通常定义样式很棘手。在美国大多数地区，所谓的“底特律风格的披萨”只是底特律的“披萨”。换句话说，通常是局外人创建标签，然后被他人束缚，包括试图大肆宣传的国家连锁店。
截至十年前，美国有70,000个比萨店。这是70,000。
New York
As the nexus of Italian immigration in the United States, New York is where the American pizza restaurant is said to have been officially born in 1905, at the hands of Gennaro Lombardi. (His spot claimed the first pizza-business license in the country, though there were most certainly under-the-radar street vendors and informal pizza operations before then, as Helstosky writes in her book. In recent years, Lombardi as the originator of New York pizzahas come into question）
当识别纽约派时，它的大而软的切片是一个死去的赠品。这是所有区域风格中最宽，最柔韧的。它很薄，但不如那不勒斯的祖先薄，这是意大利法律规定的大约十分之一英寸。另一方面，纽约切片是两倍，付出或服用。可折叠性是普遍同意的元素。当您拿起并吃掉它时，您必须折叠它吗？这可能是纽约风格。（那不勒斯和纽黑文披萨也是如此，但切片通常更小。）这同时使您可以捕获油脂并随身携带，并携带它，回到了比萨饼的18世纪起源：在那不勒斯的渔民早餐，在那不勒斯的早餐，在那不勒斯的早餐，无产阶级和便携式，在街上被食用。
与美国那不勒斯的祖先及其区域对应物相比，纽约切片的大小相比，纽约切片的大小相比：9''''或10'。据披萨研究员利兹·巴雷特（Liz Barrett）称，它的咬合酥脆，但由于使用的高浮雕面粉而保留了咀嚼，实际上，这是纽约披萨的另一个定义特征。虽然一些发誓纽约的矿产丰富的自来水扮演角色，但陪审团仍在那个角色上。另外，巴雷特（Barrett）断言，纽约比萨饼必须手工扔，从不泛滥。
How else is New York pizza different from Neapolitan style? It lacks the pillowy air pockets of Neapolitan's airy玉米片或边缘。与那不勒斯风格不同的是，它是由其原始的西红柿和盐的简约酱（由意大利法律保护的）定义的，新约克酱通常有一些草药。马苏里拉奶酪坚硬且老化，而那不勒斯披萨必须以新鲜的芝士为唯一的奶酪，如果有的话。人们认为，这是由于许多纽约比萨店现在使用的燃气烤箱。与更热燃烧的煤炭和木烤箱相比，在这种环境下烹饪需要更长的时间，而原始的马苏里拉奶酪可以变成橡胶或导致湿润的外壳，需要陈旧，低浓度的东西。
新天堂
乍一看，a New Haven pie看起来很像纽约πe. It's similarly circular, flat, and large, with cardboard-thin crust. Upon closer inspection, you'll see the slices are a little smaller—so it's never really sold by the slice and still molten towards the middle—and the pie's a bit wobbly shaped, even oblong. That's partly because the dough is allowed to ferment longer, usually overnight, making it more relaxed. Under the scorch of the oven, it stretches into irregular form.
The crust is noticeably thinner and crispier than its New York counterpart, but still with that slightly fermented chew. And on some pies, the toppings stretch all the way to the edge, nary a cornicione or rim in sight. When present, this edge is flatter than that of a New York pie, which itself is typically flatter and less airy than its Neapolitan progenitor. It soon becomes evident that "abeets"—a phonetic abbreviation of "apizza," a nod to the Neapolitan dialect of New Haven's Italian immigrants—merits its own word.
首先，有char。这么多char。拿起切片后，您的手指会变得烟灰。在另一个披萨上，您可能会因烧伤而试图将其发送回去，但是在Apizza上，这是一个定义的功能。确实，它带来了令人欢迎的脆度和甜蜜。这要归功于继续定义纽黑文披萨的煤烤箱。尽管煤炭在纽约也是历史性的先例，但随着1900年代中期煤炭开采的鼎盛时期，它最终因劳动力密集型和越来越昂贵而被淘汰。（更不用说对环境法的镇压了。）今天，除了伦巴第和托托诺（Totonno's）等老式场所外，大多数纽约披萨店都使用燃气，油或天然气辅助的煤炭烤箱，但燃烧煤炭比萨在2010年代中期。虽然现在其他纽黑文（New Haven）披萨（如Bar and Modern）分别使用天然气和石油的纽黑文披萨景点确实如此，但与纽约相比，以某种方式与这里的比萨饼绑在一起。
您会听到650 F甚至900 F的煤炭燃烧。但是这个数字可以高达1000度，according tothe late Gary Bimonte, who, as co-owner of New Haven's legendary Pepe's and grandson of founder Frank Pepe,made an indelible impact on New Haven pizza and American pizza at large。与水分重的木材不同，煤炭燃烧较热，干燥，并带有刺痛的热量。结果，燃煤披萨烹饪更快，使其特征性的脆性呈淡淡。
如果不谈论两种风格的浇头，就不会对Apizza进行讨论。首先，普通派，也称为番茄派。仅用酱汁覆盖，它看起来没有奶酪，唤起了西西里人sfincioneor Spanishpan con tomate, which are variations of tomato on bread. Although there's no opaque mozzarella (that's extra), there's a barely discernible dusting of a hard cheese—it might be pecorino romano—which adds a layer of umami.
That was one of the first pies sold by Frank Pepe in the 1920s, who's universally acknowledged to be the creator of New Haven-style pizza. He started out delivering pizzas to Italian workers in the city's rubber and hardware factories, and later opened Pepe's in the city's Little Italy in 1925. Today, it continues to be the most famous and longest running New Haven pizza restaurant, with close competition from Sally's—opened in 1938—a couple blocks away.
佩佩还以创建著名的白蛤馅饼而闻名，其中包括新鲜的Quahogs，附近是罗德岛的烹饪卡片。这个披萨上的蛤lam几乎没有煮熟，仍然是完美的，唤起了大海。与番茄派一起，白蛤披萨是纽黑文的必要订单。与耶鲁大学的本科生和新英格兰周末的人相吻合，因为您只是在佩佩（Pepe），萨利（Sally's），现代和酒吧（Sally's，Modern and Bar）之间进行比赛。
Detroit
尽管在过去几年中，底特律风格的比萨普及了，但大多数人仍然不认为底特律是披萨城。但是他们应该。莫敦（Motown）与底特律科尼（Coney）狗竞争，也是面团镇，正如某些人所说的那样。近年来，由厨师驱动的披萨商店国有化 - 罗伊·崔（Roy Choi）现在在洛杉矶的锅披萨（Pot Pizza）和布鲁克林（Brooklyn）的艾米（Emmy）和艾米（Emmy）和国家的艾米（Emmy）和国家连锁店（National Chains），底特律披萨（Detroit Pizza）在过去的五年中已经在美国意识上的灭亡，但是我们不敢将其称为趋势。它已经存在了四分之三世纪。
Detroit pizza is most immediately identified by its rectangular shape, but so is grandma pizza—a similarly square product most often associated with Long Island. While both share Sicilian origins of sfinciuni—tomato sauce slathered on focaccia-like crust—Detroit-style is undoubtedly thicker and heftier than grandma, while still being surprisingly light.
The shape of Detroit-style pizza, however, is simply a function of something more important: the blue steel automotive pan it's cooked in. It's the kind that was used in car factories to hold hardware parts and catch grease, at least in decades past. And as the now-famous story goes, Gus Guerra got these pans from a factory-worker friend, while his Sicilian mother-in-law furnished the recipe. It would go on to make him the universally acknowledged originator of Detroit-style pizza.
这一年是1946年，瓜拉（Guerra）经营着一家酒吧，后来成为伙伴的披萨。GIS驻扎在英格兰后，在战争中回来，在底特律开设了鱼和薯条商店。在美国的其他地方，其他时间在意大利度过的士兵使人们对一个叫做比萨饼的东西有所了解。两者都帮助动员了以前仅在家中或其他意大利人烹饪的意大利美国人，以扩大其文化群体之外的产品。同时，非意大利人开始更加接受当时仍被认为是“种族”食物的东西。vwin德赢ac米兰
由于业务分歧，瓜拉（Guerra）最终离开了巴迪（Buddy）的1953年开始克洛弗菲尔德（Cloverfield）披萨。他的儿子今天仍然参与其中。虽然Buddy的大部分新闻界，但Cloverfield仍然有很多内心，并且可以说是更靠近底特律风格的披萨的灵魂。这两家餐厅以及路易斯（Loui's）（由另一名伙伴的员工开放）为底特律风格的披萨的必看三级餐厅提供了预示。
Other defining features of Detroit pizza? The wet dough, which lends itself to that airy rise. Although the resulting crust is thick, it's lighter than what you might expect when you pick it up (that is, if you don't go in with a knife and fork, as many do). Tradition dictates that toppings are pressed directly onto the dough,then撒上奶酪，最后撒上酱汁，这有助于防止潮湿的外壳。尽管Buddy仍然使用其原始风格的披萨来做到这一点，但大多数时候，您最终会看到顶部的浇头，即使只是为了客户似乎喜欢它的原因，因为他们可以看到他们得到的东西。奶酪一直延伸到馅饼的边缘，并焦糖化，使角落变得清脆房地产。几乎总是使用砖奶酪，或者它的某种混合物 - 它的黄油，类似切达干酪，从定义上讲是来自威斯康星州的。由于砖奶酪比切达干酪更胖，触感柔软，因此对于那些奶酪拉力来说，它是超级融化的。
Chicago Deep Dish
“芝加哥风格”是所有区域变体中最知名的之一，已成为深盘的代名词。然而，这让一些芝加哥人捍卫了它阴影中存在的酒馆风格的披萨 - 因此，饼干薄薄，切成方形的馅饼之所以被命名，是因为它足够轻便在酒吧吃零食，并且可以说更频繁地吃掉。
让我们清楚一点：芝加哥深盘确实是这座城市的心爱的象征。但是，与纽约不同，由于明显的原因，这种馅饼并不是每天的习俗：它的重量。这是一顿真正的中西部餐，非常适合宽松的冬季。您必须将其作为一个整体订购 - 这是社会事务，而不是小吃。（尽管确实存在个人派，但这就像自己吃烧烤一样：您可以，但这只是感觉不对。）
芝加哥风格的深盘披萨也许最大的误解是它很重。虽然确实在填充（“一顿饭”），但正确完成时，地壳本身是令人惊讶的轻便和黄油。（Lou Malnati's是该市最富有的深陷餐厅之一，实际上已经商标了“ Buttercrust”一词。）它几乎是片状，但坚固的，保留了其建筑完整性，以包含其中的浇头。
芝加哥确实是披萨馅饼: Vertical walls of biscuity crust encase a filling that's a good inch thick. Mozzarella is layered at the bottom, hidden from sight—this helps insulate the dough beneath from getting soggy from the toppings above. Because of the long cook times—at least 30 minutes—if cheese were on top of the pie it would either burn, or turn hard and gluey. Toppings are then put on top of the cheese, and sausage, if added, is put in raw. Sauce, usually with crushed whole tomatoes, is slathered on last, with a light dusting of parm. Like any good pie, when you cut into it, it should retain its structure despite the generosity of its filling. You should be able to see the strata of crust, cheese, meat, and sauce.
像许多其他地区风格一样，芝加哥深盘在40年代初开始，当时GIS从战争中回来，美国人正在冒险使用“民族”食品，其中包括披萨。vwin德赢ac米兰德州艾克·塞威尔（Texan Ike Sewell）最初想开设一家像他一起长大的墨西哥餐厅，但他的朋友和商业伙伴里克·里卡多（Ric Riccardo）最近从意大利回来了那不勒斯披萨。但是，当他们测试食谱时，塞维尔一直希望以真正的德克萨斯州方式更大，更笨拙的方式 - 根据前长期餐饮编辑Penny Pollack的说法Chicago Magazine。最终，深盘是在Uno's出生的。虽然有些当地人由于炒作而避开了这个地方，但这个地方是一个机构：如果您想在芝加哥尝试深盘，那么您将无法去Uno。
And then there's Lou Malnati's, which was started by the son of Rudy Malnati Sr. He might have developed Uno's recipe in the first place, since Sewell and Riccardo didn't cook. In 1971, Rudy's son, Lou, broke away to start his eponymous restaurant. Together with Giordano's—famous for its stuffed crust pizza, which features an extra layer of crust on top—it's safe to say that these three are a solid trifecta of deep dish in Chicago.
California
There's a story about Madonna, I think, going to see a Shakespeare play. I have no idea if it's true or not. At the end she says, "It was great, but so full of clichés."
对于初学者来说，这就是加利福尼亚披萨的样子。它不是由特定地壳或形状定义的，它似乎缺乏独特的风格，而是用模糊但司空见惯的术语描述。有关于农贸市场，季节性和当地农产品的讨论。它可能有馅料，例如山羊奶酪，自制香肠，大蒜剥落。但是这些事情只有在某种类别的烹饪中才能期望because加利福尼亚这样做。它发明了陈词滥调。实际上，三个厨师确实做到了：埃德·拉杜，爱丽丝·沃特斯和沃尔夫冈·帕克。
It's not that seasonality didn't exist before these West Coast minds; rather, it hadn't become the predominant food philosophy in restaurants across America. In the '80s, we were still crawling out of the dark ages of canned food and microwaves. Consumer food culture, with its fig jam and squash blossoms, hadn't yet washed over the country. Farmers' markets weren't yet normcore. Goat cheese was still an oddity.
So in 1971, when Alice Waters started churning out salads with organic endives and blood oranges in Berkeley, it was a revelation. Her leeks and duck confit, freed from the confines of stuffy French restaurants where they'd long been relegated, received a similar welcome—and ended up on her pizzas at Chez Panisse.
In 1980, Ed LaDou was across the bay in San Francisco, concocting pizzas with ricotta and pâté. Rumor has it that Wolfgang Puck tried one of his pies, and then poached him to work at Spago, which Puck opened in 1982 to instant success.
从那里开始，现在著名的烟熏鲑鱼和鱼子酱比萨饼出生了，通过Spago的名人的西好莱坞地点和开放式厨房概念升起，Puck Pioneedeed率先，这使他的餐厅成为戏剧性的戏剧性和现成的一部分- 看。但这不仅仅是Ritzy成分。Puck只是将山羊奶酪放在披萨上是一个抢士。除了Ladou和Waters以及其他少数其他厨师之外，没有人真正做到这一点，当然也没有达到这一水平。公众不习惯它，也不知道该怎么做。冰球和拉杜重新定义了披萨。
不过，加利福尼亚风格不仅仅是意外的成分，也是欧洲风格的成分。这也不是关于柠檬草或tandoori香料等强迫全球浇头。虽然可以，有时是。
您可以在加利福尼亚披萨厨房看到这一点，Ladou开发了第一个菜单：它的泰国鸡肉比萨饼改变了游戏。虽然加利福尼亚披萨的一部分是它的任何事情，但不仅如此。很难定义 - 更多的是一种氛围。
Roy Choi's now-defunct Pot Pizza was an洛杉矶派personified, with kimchi cutting the fat of cheese on his Ktown special. And so are Travis Lett's pies at Gjelina, the goop-iest of all L.A. restaurants. Nettle, duck prosciutto, pomodoro, Calabrian chili, burrata: This is all on one pizza at Gjelina. Lett's menu reads like a punchline of 2016 chef culture, but despite it—because of it?—it too is classically L.A., and utterly delicious. Mozza, Pizzana, Hail Mary, Ronan, Casa Bianca, Tandoori Pizza: So many restaurants have indelibly added to the beautiful mess that is L.A. pizza, and thus California pizza at large. It's as winding as L.A.'s highways, with no single style emerging. And, in true California style, the plurality of styles是它的风格。