什么是犹太烧烤？
哈里斯·梅耶·塞林格（Harris Mayer-Selinger）长大了Rosh Hashanah。As a 13-year-old, he’d get drunk off of Manischewitz wine at Bar Mitzvahs. He still makes the charoset for his family’s Passover Seder. These kinds of cultural connections to Judaism are what inspired the dishes at Mayer-Selinger’s newest restaurant,PULKIE—a Jewish-style barbecue joint in New York City’s Chelsea Market.
犹太烧烤的想法似乎是Meshugana（意第绪语“疯狂”），因为美国烧烤通常以猪肉为中心，这是您所能获得的非犹太人。然而，犹太烧烤是完全有意义的，尤其是因为美国烧烤的另一个支柱长期以来一直是犹太食品佳能的一部分，至少在Ashkenaz的传统中。vwin德赢ac米兰
“有韩国烧烤，有中国烧烤，有蒙古烧烤，有巴基斯坦烧烤，”梅耶·塞林格说。“为什么不犹太烧烤？”
Mayer-Selinger可能会说，当您将传统犹太风味与美国烧烤经典融合在一起时，犹太烧烤是您得到的。这就是他在普尔克斯（Pulkies）做的事情，其中包括“牛ket”胡萝卜和洋葱以及面条Kugel Mac和奶酪等菜肴。
“Pulkies is the culmination of me as a person,” he said. “As a cook, as an eater, as an American, and as a Jew.” Pulled turkey, chopped brisket, and honey butter cornbread make it clear that Pulkies is a barbecue place. Chopped liver, Manischewitz wine jelly, and endive and apple “charoset” salad make it clear that this is also a Jewish place, though it’s decidedly not kosher.
阅读更多：美国烧烤
梅耶·塞林格（Mayer-Selinger）不让犹太洁食，他的大多数世俗犹太人的朋友都不留下犹太洁食，纽约，国家和世界各地的大量犹太人也没有犹太人（包括这位作家）。但是，犹太烧烤本质上是犹太烧烤。尽管Pulkies可能是自己标记为“犹太风格烧烤”的第一个地方，但多年来，Kosher Pitmasters一直在磨练自己的一种犹太烧烤。
Rabbi Mendel Segal, co-owner ofMendel’s Backyard BBQ & Brew在迈阿密，不想让人们说他的食物对犹太烧烤有益。vwin德赢ac米兰塞加尔说：“我想听到，‘这是一个好烧烤。’
根据他的经验，在犹太烧烤方面有两个主要的误解。一个，味道不同。他说：“犹太牛s的味道与非犹太牛s的味道不应不同。”二，犹太洁食意味着食物被拉比祝福。vwin德赢ac米兰不是。这意味着动物以特定的方式被宰杀，并且根据犹太法律制备食物。vwin德赢ac米兰
Aside from pork being off limits, certified kosher barbecue doesn’t use any dairy, since kosher law prohibits the mixing of milk and meat. As for Jewish barbecue, Segal said, “I’m not really sure what Jewish barbecue means, unless it’s taking certain cultural elements, like doing a barbecue brisket knish.”
对于打开的亚历山大·雷默（Alexander Remer）Shmorg：烟关节去年春天，在洛杉矶，犹太烧烤和犹太烧烤之间的区别是技术性。
“Kosher is just a set of regulations that we have to maintain in order to qualify for certifications of being kosher. There isn’t any cultural flair to it,” he said. Remer didn’t grow up keeping kosher (he became more observant upon going to Yeshiva University and getting married), but he did grow up eating his bubby’s brisket, and that’s how he thinks about the idea of Jewish barbecue: as meats that Jews are familiar with, simply presented in new ways.
That’s exactly what Ari White is doing with his Hackensack, N.J.-based kosher barbecue truck and pop-up,The Wandering Que。
怀特（White）在T.X.的埃尔帕索（El Paso）出生和长大，全都是使犹太洁食世界可以使用的非犹太食品。vwin德赢ac米兰他用犹太洁食（由鸡肉制成），培根（由羊肉制成）和香肠（由牛肉制成）推动边界。怀特的最新实验是辣椒脆皮，这是一种由炸大蒜，葱和脆皮辣椒制成的四川调味品broke the Internet。
“I don't know how I made it 41 years before tasting my first chili crisp,” White said. “It doesn't exist in the kosher world, and it needs to.”
丹妮·戈德布拉特（Dani Goldblatt）烟熏犹太烧烤在洛杉矶，仅仅是一个女人，就占据了自己的犹太烧烤角。她说：“在犹太烧烤界，几乎都是所有人。”“我是这个坏蛋女孩，他正在分裂木头并刺火，但我也是东正教犹太人。”
Right now, barbecue is Goldblatt’s side gig; she also teaches high school Jewish studies. And though she doesn’t consider herself “a big brisket person,” there’s nothing Goldblatt loves more than seeing a customer’s face light up when they taste her smoked brisket for the first time.
犹太人与牛ket有着悠久的历史，正是这种历史将这些不同形式的犹太人，犹太风格和犹太烧烤束缚在一起。
“Brisket was hard to cook and nobody really wanted it, so it was dirt cheap,” said Bryan Gryka, chef and general manager of米尔特（Milt）的烧烤in Chicago. Jewish immigrants living in New York in the 18th and 19th centuries often gravitated toward brisket because it was all they could afford. Using brisket, they made deli staples like corned beef and pastrami, which have since become synonymous with Jewish cuisine.
传统的犹太风格brisket-the你开启t find at holidays—is braised, yet the brisket at these barbecue spots is cooked in all kinds of ways. At Pulkies, Mayer-Selinger confits the brisket in its own fat. At Shmorg, Remer cures briskets overnight. At Milt’s, Gryka doesn’t ever use mesquite because he can’t stand the flavor.
牛ket有一个频谱，就像有一个保持犹太洁食的频谱一样。对于某些犹太人来说，保持犹太洁食意味着仅在犹太洁食餐厅吃饭。对于其他人来说，这意味着不在家外面吃肉。然后是犹太犹太人，他们永远不会吃火腿三明治，但要对曾经的芝士汉堡进行例外。
“It’s all Jewish,” said Jeff Aeder, the founder of Milt’s. “It’s just different degrees of observance and interpretations.”
Jewish barbecue itself seems to also be a spectrum. It isn’t one thing; it’s all of these things. It’s kosher and non-kosher, religious and cultural, traditional and experimental. It's also fantastic.