改变我生活的乌冬面
任何参观东京都需要巨大的食欲和开放的方式，可以在一天中的每个小时内吃面条。从阳光的崛起来看，您会发现当地人肩膀肩膀lur着面条，经常哭泣，煮得冷或冷，有时搭配天妇罗，烤鱼蛋糕或Onsen Tamago（软煮的鸡蛋）。面条在东京无处不在；这些变化令人惊讶，具有满足渴望的无限能力。
On a hurriedly planned family vacation long before COVID-19 paralyzed international travel, my family and I arrived with only very basic knowledge of this iconic city, but with a firm recommendation from a friend to visit Udon Shin. Upon arriving by train to Shinjuku Station, one of the world's busiest railway hubs, a blur of dizzying lights and arcades—a formidable mix of modern and traditional—took over. We tripped down Memory Lane (Omoide Yokocho), a narrow alleyway dotted with tiny storefronts and restaurants that have barely changed since the late 1940s. My kids cheekily slipped into an arcade to spend a few minutes gaming. Wandering on, we turned onto a quieter street, where people were gathered outside a compact, dimly lit storefront: Udon Shin.
我们等待,我们按足总ces against the steamy windows, a portal into a quintessential micro-scale Tokyo kitchen. Through the partial veil of billowing steam, we were entranced by the rhythm of the udon-making process—the noodle master rolls the dough, kneading and cutting with measured hustle and utmost precision. As orders roll in, noodles are dropped into a huge vat of boiling water and then quickly cooled in an ice bath to halt cooking. Here, every bowl of noodles is made to order. Our enchantment was broken by the server, who handed us the menu—orders were taken outside, presumably so the food could be prepared while we waited. This was the efficiency and generous hospitality that we would come to love about Japan.
菜单上有几个Zaru Udon - 用蘸酱搭配的香水，但我选择了Hotsoy sauce udon with butter, pepper, and a soft-boiled egg, and I encouraged my meat-eating son to order the signature carbonara-inspired dish with pepper, Parmesan cheese, and a slab of bacon tempura. Many of the dishes at Udon Shin are not traditional but perfectly encapsulate the skillful and inventive way the Japanese reinterpret flavors from other cultures through their own delicious lens.
Inside, the atmosphere was intimate. There were five or six seats by the counter, where my daughter and I were seated, while my husband and boys were squished around a small table against the wall behind us. When the bowl of noodles was placed before me, the thick strands cradled a jiggly soft-boiled egg and were purposefully twisted into a bath of hot soy sauce. A bundle of finely sliced scallions brought color to the plate, and everything was topped with a heavy layer of black pepper.
The wheat-based noodles were chewy and toothsome, their freshness simply bewildering. The wobbly egg melted into the noodles and coalesced joyfully with the hot soy, butter, and piquant pepper, clinging lovingly to every strand of udon. Inside, I was all aflutter, bubbling with excitement, astonishment, and sheer joy at the bowl of food before me. From the first mouthful, I recognized this to be a seminal food moment. This experience would be forever embedded into my culinary consciousness.
我从小就吞噬了面条，母亲在家里烹制的面条，所以这碗的乌冬面感觉很熟悉但又令人陶醉。旅行和漫游的奇观是在世界上任尤文图 德赢何地方都发现了这种归属感，在新宿的这家矮小的餐厅中，我在一碗面条中找到了家。现在，每当我渴望重温东京的神奇，改变人生的经历时，我都知道该怎么办：准备一碗大豆，胡椒粉的乌冬面，上面放着一个几乎没有蛋我自己的厨房。
