In Praise of Parsnips, the Humble Heroes of the Vegetable Drawer
Low-key and pale (not unlike myself, come wintertime), theparsnip永远不会假设激发人们对坡道或传家宝西红柿的兴奋。但是，使它的谦卑对平淡无奇的谦卑是一个错误：能够将甜味，淀粉状和痛苦的味道包装到每道菜中，我从未见过parsnip的多功能性与在佛朗斯, the Brooklyn brasserie from hospitality veterans John Winterman and Christopher Cipollone.
首先，有酥脆，完美的圆形bomboloni，慷慨地塞满了粘糊糊的欧洲防风草，上面放着黑松露剃须。对于甜点，精致的欧洲防风草芝士蛋糕设法既放纵又精致 -parsnipway. But my heart truly stopped as soon as I tasted the puréed parsnips served aside Francie's dewy skinned dry-aged crown of duck, which also comes with sweet sopressata jam and sauteéd swiss chard. This fairly simple accoutrement of diced green apples (for tart, mouth-watering acidity), parsnips (for a mashed potato-esque texture) and brown butter (for the soul). I found myself savoring the surprise of how its flavor evolved atop a slightly smoky slice of duck breast, or a crunchy bite of greens.
Confusing its humility for blandness is a mistake.
The portion was generous enough for me to bring some home, where I found it made for a scrumptious sandwich topping alongside sprouts and carrots. I rationed out spoonfuls of it on top of Cape Cod potato chips, beneath a little caviar. I'm convinced that heaven is a place where parsnips are permitted to shine in all of their glory, and this purée is a rousing endorsement of all this little root vegetable can do.
The origins of my parsnip infatuation dates back years ago to a dinner I enjoyed at Hemlock, the now-shuttered restaurant helmed byDiego Moya, whose appreciation of underdog veg now shines through on the menu at June wine bar. I wasn't even living in New York City at that point, and if I'm being honest, my now-husband and I popped into the New American spot on something of a whim –– it was the kind of freezing December night that makes the lower east side feels like a massive wind tunnel, and the prospect of a warm meal and full-bodied red wine sounded magical. The parsnips were listed as a side dish towards the bottom of the concise menu, and I tacked them onto our meal purely because there wasbrown butter and sageinvolved; when they quietly landed on the table, I was two glasses of wine deep, and had all but forgotten we'd ordered them. One bite turned into two, after which I pushed aside my main course (I don't even remember what it was) and simply devoted my time and attention to this bizarre little plate of root vegetables. It was the start of something beautiful.
在我去杂货店的大多数旅行中，我会抓住一些松散的脱衣舞并将其扔在冰箱中，知道如果我在未来一周中选择中国外卖或一碗简单的意大利面，他们将生存下来。毕竟，与春季混合物或一堆葱的飞行浴缸不同，欧洲防风草是耐心的。它并不是想让您感到内餐，而且非常愿意使人类知道的最低饮食（阅读：切碎，用橄榄油和迷迭香扔掉，并在烤箱中以400度烤25分钟）绝对的场合。
It's comforting to know that I'm not alone in my reverence. "Parsnips are the root vegetables of all the root vegetables. If I see it in the store, that's what I'm grabbing," says2019Food & Wine最好的新厨师卡罗琳·格洛弗。“在安妮特，我们以各种方式使用它们。它们使最奶油的酱与gnocchi和棕色黄油或扁豆沙拉上最甜，最脆的薯条完美搭配。”格洛弗（Glover）甚至喜欢与他们结束一顿饭，以颠倒的茴香和脱衣舞蛋糕的形式和一勺冰淇淋。
我了解到，纽约市令人愉悦的新春季咖啡馆阿斯彭的创始人萨布丽娜·鲁丁（Sabrina Rudin）也很容易唱歌：“我特别喜欢用它们来代替更传统的蔬菜，例如花椰菜和土豆。素食牧羊人的馅饼配炖蔬菜和pinto豆，并在上面放上creamy parsnip mash。" Rudin also suggestscrispy parsnipand sweet potato fries, which, as a person who firmly believes that every meal can stand to be improved by the addition of a side of fries, I'm very much on board with.
欧洲防风草是您通往Instagram名望，追随者和财富的桥梁吗？否。它会为您带来健康，免疫力和现代历史上最混乱的岁月生活的新租约吗？我没有发现事实，但是请告诉我是否错了。但是，如果您正在寻找那种勇敢的风格，那么您可能处于错误的位置 - 这是我们正在谈论的parsnip，一年中最凄凉的几个月中坚定不移的晚餐伴侣，礼貌地等待着您酥脆的垃圾箱。给欧洲防风草一个机会，不是吗？我敢说你会很高兴的。