These days, winemakers all over the world are enthusiastically producing orange wine, and the sheer number and variety of wines, flavors, textures, and styles is mind-boggling.
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Here's a fun question to amuse your wine-geek friends with: What style of wine is gaining in popularity all over the U.S., but can never be sold with its name written on the label?

答案是橙葡萄酒,一种非官方的葡萄酒,但现在vwin德赢ac米兰全球流行的速记是指“用皮肤发酵的白葡萄制成的葡萄酒”。面临的挑战是监督美国葡萄酒标签的酒精和烟草税与贸易局(TTB)宣布,“橙葡萄酒”一词可能会使人们感到困惑,并使他们认为葡萄酒实际上是由橙子制成的。vwin德赢ac米兰

用橙酒敬酒vwin德赢ac米兰
学分:Shutterstock / Yulia Grigoryeva

Therefore, if you enjoy these wines, you have to hunt them down via various codewords: skin contact, amber wine, and skin-fermented white wine, or foreign language terms such ascurtimenta(Portuguese) orvino bianco macerato(Italian).

The termorange winehas gained in popularity because it's a simple way to refer to the darker amber or orange hue of the wines. Color in orange wines comes from prolonged contact with the grape skins during fermentation, the same way red wines are produced from red grapes. It's the opposite of mainstream white wine production, where the grape skins are removed from the juice after just a few hours.

Orange wine has come in for its fair share of criticism, mostly because it's seen as a poster-child for thenatural winemovement. Natural wines, made with minimal intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar, often have startlingly different aromas and flavors that seem to worry wine traditionalists. But since orange wines often have a substantial textural component—tannins, as in a red wine, or a fuller body—they present a greater point of difference than their minimal intervention white, rosé, or red cousins.

There's no need to get caught up in the debate, but just remember this: Orange wine (or skin-fermented white wine if you tend toward the verbose)refers to a winemaking technique, not to a philosophy.That's where it differs dramatically from natural wine. And, bearing that in mind, orange wines are as broad and diverse as whites, reds, orrosés是。

While the roots of this winemaking style are ancient—it's the ultimate zero-technology winemaking method—its modern-day renaissance only started to gather speed in the last two decades, thanks to pioneering producers in northeast Italy (Friuli), western Slovenia (Brda), and notably the country of Georgia (essentially its birthplace; skin-contact whites have been made in Georgia for thousands of years).

Now, winemakers in every wine-producing corner of the globe have enthusiastically turned their hands to the style, meaning that the sheer number and variety of wines, flavors, textures, and styles is mind-boggling. Here are a dozen delicious orange wines from nine different countries, giving a glimpse of what's on offer for anyone with an adventurous palate.

2017 Heinrich Graue Freyheit($ 51)

如果您认为像“优雅”和“以水果为中心”这样的描述符不适用于橙葡萄酒,请再三思。vwin德赢ac米兰这款奥地利装瓶是零零酿酒(没有添加剂,甚至没有少量的二氧化硫),其技巧表vwin德赢ac米兰现出色,最终结果显示出水果纯度和多汁,浓郁的口感,只是充满活力。

The blend of biodynamically grown burgundy varieties (Grauer Burgunder, Weissburgunder and Chardonnay) from Heinrich's Burgenland vineyards was wild-fermented with two weeks of skin contact, then aged 17 months in large-format used oak barrels. From the 2018 vintage on, Heinrich is swiftly replacing the barrels with amphorae, achieving yet more finesse and purity.

2018 Manon High Paradise ($40)

Tim Webber & Monique Millton farm their vines biodynamically 2,000' up in Australia's Adelaide hills, on land which they acknowledge as spiritually belonging to the Peramangk Aboriginal tribe. High Paradise is a fascinating blend of Chardonnay, Savagnin and Gargenega (the key grape of Soave), with some components skin fermented and others direct-pressed (fermented without their skins).

最终结果具有丝质,精致的质地,带有Garganega的热情和花卉芳香剂。请注意,2017年目前还喝得很好,这表明这是一种从几年的瓶装中受益的葡萄酒。vwin德赢ac米兰

orange wines
Credit: Sari Blum / Rocim / Ferdinand / Baia's Wine / Pepe Mendoza

2018 Pepe Mendoza Casa Agricola Pureza Muscat ($30)

这款来自西班牙南部阿利坎特(vwin德赢ac米兰Alicante)的激动人心的葡萄酒以其新鲜感和精致的味道震撼。佩佩·门多萨(Pepe Mendoza)干属葡萄藤,并在他的侧面有高度,以帮助维持葡萄中的所有重要酸度。

Fermented intinajas(西班牙小型两栖动物),这里的皮肤接触为香水的桃水果提供了令人难以置信的浓度,从而增加了迷迭香和薄荷的诱人气味。质地没有什么尖峰,但它是一种结构化的葡萄酒,可以持续使用。vwin德赢ac米兰

而且不要害怕肌肉表 - 如果您不喜欢该品种通常是您的脸色乳房或玫瑰花瓣香气的粉丝,那么这款酒就会覆盖。vwin德赢ac米兰这些笔记很好地占据了统治,不要主导喝酒的经验。

2019年Domaine des Mathouans矿山De Rien($ 27)

Some wines just have that intangibledrinkabilityfactor. And this one from France's Roussillon region qualifies. For it, Muscat a Petit Grains gets the whole-bunch treatment, with a semi-carbonic maceration lasting about 20 days.

结果是对葡萄味和所有芳香的一切都非常高兴,这是卑鄙的质感,上面写着“不要认真对待我 - 只是喝酒,要开心。”在质地方面,这是一种冰沙,但就身体和深度而言,这与标准的非皮肤发酵肌肉是不同的野兽。

And as for the name—mine de rien—it means "no BS." Indeed.

2019年Baia的Wivwin德赢ac米兰ne Tsitska-Tsolikouri-Krakhuna($ 28)

While qvevri-fermented wines from eastern Georgia (Kakheti) are sometimes brutally tannic and dried out, the traditional style in the west (Imereti) has always been softer, with less skin contact.

QVEVRI(乔治亚特定类型的大型,被埋葬的两栖动物,底部有独特的位置)已经在这里酿酒的核心已有5000多年的历史了。vwin德赢ac米兰Baia和她的姐姐Gvantsa Abduladze在其位于Imereti的家庭房地产中制作了低干预,传统风格的葡萄酒 - 实际上,Clay Qvevri中的vwin德赢ac米兰葡萄和长长的发酵和衰老。Baia的葡萄vwin德赢ac米兰酒具有微妙的触感,只有该地区三种最常见的土著品种的融合而已。

You'll taste tangy citrus, umeboshi plum and a bit of kiwi. It's really zippy and leesy with a lovely tannic prickle on the finish. This basically has it all: fruit expression, structure and freshness. And it's a super-accessible introduction to western Georgia's qvevri tradition.

NV Croci Campedello Bianco Frizzante ($24)

Emilia-Romagna's Massimiliano Croci is one of the more shy and retiring young winemakers I know, but his wines are outspoken and characterful. This lightly sparkling frizzante style is typical of the region (it's not too far away from Lambrusco country).

He partly ferments it in tanks, and then bottles it to develop the all-important bubbles. Croci is situated in the Colli Piacentini sub-region, home to the very particular Malvasia di Candia Aromatica variety. As you might expect from its name, this is a very aromatic grape, with a distinctive candied-fruit and dried-flower perfume.

Campedello always has a few weeks of skin contact, and there are tannins as well as bubbles, a combination that I love—especially in tandem with some of the pork-heavy cuisine that's popular in the region.

2015 Paraschos Amphoreus Ribolla Gialla($ 56)

The Paraschos family have Greek roots, but settled in an idyllic part of Italy's Collio, right on the border with Slovenia. Inspired by their renowned neighbors Gravner and Radikon, their white wines are made with long skin contact and sometimes, as here, are fermented in amphora.

The Paraschos' amphoras of choice are small Cretan vessels. Evangelos and his sons Alexis and Jannis always achieve amazing tension in their wines, and this is no exception. Ribolla Gialla isn't a variety with a particularly strong fruit character, although here there are ripe yellow plums on the palate. But what it excels at (when skin-fermented) is a slightly honeyed, herby complexity and very serious structure. All of this makes for a wine that you can happily drink now (at almost six years old), but also cellar for years longer.

2019 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Branco ($19)

非凡的认为在葡萄牙,多herly Alentejo's clay-pot winemaking tradition remained almost invisible—hiding in plain sight—for much of the last half-century. The simple technique of fermenting grapes with skins and stems in large clay pots (500–1,000 liters is typical) has a history going back at least two millenia.

Herdade do Rocim is one of a handful of producers who've been inspired to take this ancient method and revitalize it with one key difference: they actually bottle the wine, so you get to taste it!

This amphora branco has remarkable fruit purity and a ripe pear character; nothing rustic or clumsy about it. Even though it stays on the skins for many months, the extraction is so gentle that the finished wine has the merest tannic prickle. Earthy, herbal and slightly smoky notes add to the finish.

2016 Quinta da Costa doPinhãoBranco($ 43)

这个杜罗庄园的故事是典型的:直到米格尔·莫拉伊斯(Miguel Morais)从他的祖父那里继承下来,它生产的一切都被卖给了主要的港口葡萄酒馆,从而消失了。vwin德赢ac米兰但是莫拉伊(Morais)认为,葡萄园有更多的葡萄酒生产。vwin德赢ac米兰

Since the winery was built for making port, it never had a press. So when Miguel came to make his first white wine (together with consultant winemaker Luis Seabra), the obvious solution was to use the skins. There's a nod to tradition here, too, as white ports are also typically made with long skin contact.

Branco 2016 Tingles配洋甘菊和Gunflint Notes,Pin-sharp果园水果和奶油。从质地上讲,它优雅而丰富,效果长而光滑。它显示出奇妙的进化,现在正在所有气缸上发射。

2016 Ferdinand Brutus Rebula(35美元)

斯洛文尼亚的排斥品种(又称意大利的ribolla gialla)非常适合长皮肤发酵:只有皮肤,其真实的特征,复杂性和结构才能说话。Matjazčetrtič是一位可放心的酿酒师,真正使这种风格唱歌vwin德赢ac米兰。在这里,Rebula有整整一年的时间与皮肤交流并发展深度和重力。

The nose teases you with aromas of autumnal, stewed fruits and a hint of fresh sage, then the palate thrills with its tartness, plus assertive but fine tannins. It's laser-sharp but somehow not in any way austere.

这种风格的结构化桔子酒值得到bvwin德赢ac米兰e taken seriously—conceptually, think of it as red wine rather than white. Don't serve it too cold, and it will go beautifully with a juicy pork cutlet or some steak tagliata.

2019 Deovlet Wines Pinot Grigio Ramato "This Time Tomorrow" ($35)

Edna Valley, where Ryan Deovlet sources the grapes for this wine, is a very warm part of southern California. Yet he found a few tricks up his sleeve to ensure that this first vintage of his ramato remains lively. And with winemaking experience culled from time spent in Australia, New Zealand and Argentina, Deovlet is no stranger to challenging climates.

Part whole-cluster fermented and part fermented in sandstone amphoras, with a whopping eight months of skin contact, this wine gets its charming hue fromPinot Grigio天生的粉红色皮肤,以及大黄和红色的香气。而且质地是柔滑而优雅的。

Ramato refers originally to an old Venetian wine style, where Pinot Grigio was lightly skin fermented for 24-48 hours (the word translates as "copper"). Deovlet was partially inspired to make this wine after reading a book about orange wine entitledAmber Revolution, written by some fellow by the name of Simon J. Woolf (and yes,你可以在这里购买)。

2018 Donkey and Goat Winery Stone Crusher Roussanne ($40

当贾里德(Jared)和特蕾西·布兰特(Tracey Brandt)在2009年开始为鲁山(Roussanne)发酵时,他们甚至都不知道“橙酒”是事物或类别。vwin德赢ac米兰

Now the world has caught up. Their chunky, expressive Roussanne is a highlight for me every year. Macerated for about two weeks on the skins, it shows vibrant apricot fruit with a fine salty seam and racy acidity on the finish. Interestingly, it feels far tauter and more lively than many varietal Rousannes from the grape's home in the Rhône valley, where it can sometimes feel a bit flabby.

石碎器的命名恰当 - 它很重要,几乎可以是一顿饭。但充满了成熟的水果和矿物张力,平衡是完美的。最好的方法?直接与酿酒厂联系,然后探vwin德赢ac米兰索其余的迷人投资组合。